Well I have an idea... What would happen if I cut the penetrator with strong rust remover???? I know mixing chemicals is bad but what would be the harm if I was in a well ventilated area??

 

It's been a while since I had to replace my track bar on my late 88 jeep, but I have had the problem with the nut turning when the ball joint at the top of the trackbar failed. I also had to remove the bar and the mounting bracket on the drivers side. (2) nuts were located under or next to the air filter box. Easier to remove the box for clearance. The third nut or bolt was located in the fender wall behind the spring. Getting to this bolt is a bit harder to access with the coil spring in the way. To gain access, jack up the frame behind the wheel, then remove the wheel. This will cause the front axle to drop a few inches and the coil spring will expand. This will make it easier to get a socket on the nut to remove it. You should be able to remove the trackbar and bracket as one piece. This should give easier access to the nut. Burn, Hack, Cut or whatever works to get the nut off, you should get new hardware with the new trackbar anyways.

 

I would do this but every single bolt on the track bar including the bracket connected to the unibody are rusted frozen. I have been soaking them for the past week. If worse comes to worse...I'll just cut the brackets off on both ends and fab some new brackets up out of 1/4 plate. I just don't have the time to do that right now. hahahaha Yeah tuition keeps going up and i don't have the money to do what I would like sometimes...hahaha. Plus its my DD so it has to be in commission. I can't risk twisting off a bolt....

 

Another thought- (If you have access to an air compressor and an air hammer) since you can get to the nut with a breaker bar, then you should be able to use an air hammer with a chisel bit to work at cipping away at the nut. We have be able to chisel off 3/8 nuts using this method. Also the vibration using a flat tip or straight end might help to loosed the frozen nuts and bolts holding the bracket. Hitting the flat of the nut with the air hammer after sitting all this time in penatrating oil might do the trick.

 

I always split the nut with a chisel or cut off wheel.Comes right off then.

 

i used air hammer method just to break the bolt loose if you can do that id say get to it should knock it off there

 

don't cut it under the bracket. I'm just learning the hard way, that bolt's tapered, it won't go through. May be time for a double shear upgrade.

 

Thanks for the responses. I'm going to try and chisel at the bolts. I'm going to go pick up some liquid wrench and just try a combo of heat, lube, hammer, and breaker bar and see what I get.

I was just about to go take the cut off wheel to the bolt if I could get the passenger side off... Good thing I didn't, Thanks!!!!

 

first get rid of the adapter on your breaker bar. Get the right size 1/2in drive socket. More torque, better outcome. Next take your air hammer and hit the bolt head perpendicular like you are trying to move the bolt sideways. A couple quick hits should loosen things. Used to do that when I worked in a body shop.
I live across Lake MI and I get the rust thing. PB, heat, 3ft pipe added to breaker bar seem to do it. I have used a 3/4 ratchet a few times when it's really bad. they are cheap at Harbor freight. Did you get your wheel off?