Trying to find a frame side track bar bracket with about 1.5"/2" drop over stock. I have an IRO one now that drops 3/4" over stock, but after mocking up my crossover I realized it's not low enough. I'm already using the JKS OTA bracket, so that side won't be changing, the drop has to come from the frame side.

I don't really have the material or weld skills to fab one, but can get someone to do it if that's my only option. Hoping someone knows of a bolt on one that drops it.

 

I'm going UTK to solve that very problem.



BTW........

I've seen pics of the TB frame mount shredding the frame from too much leverage from doing exactly what you are suggesting.

 

Consider this-

Measure off your knuckle to near where the TB mounts to the axle......let's say it's 7 inches.

Make a bend in your DOM (drag link) at about 6" so that it begins it's parallel ascent with the TB.

That's what I have also considered.

 

I'm kind of confused about what you mean by this. But if you mean bend the draglink so it matches the track bar that won't solve anything, and you don't understand how the steering should be set up, no offense. The bars the max

 

My phone is always cutting me off and posting automatically I don't know why. Happens alimony every time I post haha.

Anyway the bars themselves* don't need to parallel, it's the mounting points, the plane of the bars that needs to be parallel. Putting a bend in the bar will make it parallel but won't change he plane of the geometry.

Also the RE bracket is 1" drop over stock, I'm only looking for another 1/2", I don't think this is going to put that much more stress on the frame, maybe I'm wrong though.

 

This is not an original thought, look up Uturn steering, they basically do the same thing, as others have.

Will it work? I have no idea.

As for my understanding? yes I do.

Both the DL and TB need to follow the same arc, not the difficult to figure out.


You could have solved your problem by moving the TB mount to the knuckle itself, but you didn't.

 

Putting a bend in the bar would not put them in the same arc then, only the illusion they are, so I'm confused why you would suggest that if you understand, even if not your idea.

Putting the TB mount on the knuckle would not solve the problem, as I would still have to figure out a way to get the frame end to the right height/drop to match the DL; back to square one. That's also more welding and fab to the knuckle I'd rather not do.

I think the confusion, which is my fault for not mentioning it, is that I'm doing the WJ swap, so the DL knuckle mount is a little higher than an oem xj 30 knuckle. Again, I should have mentioned that from the beginning. Thank you for your help though, I need any and all suggestions.

 

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/wj...54/index2.html

go to post 22


No confusion, I see exactly what you are doing.

I've been studying this for some time now.

 

Read further down. He relocated his spring perches to accomplish that. Again more work than just fabbing a frame bracket if I have to.

I guess I'll buy the lowest bolt on mount I can find and go from there, maybe alter it to work. Or just fab one completely.

Unless anyone else has ideas?

 

So decided to fab a bracket from scratch. Is 3/16 steel going to strong enough? It will be gusseted all over as well:

 

Making one from scratch I can get the outward angle I need as well as the drop.

 

Also, I knew I was going to have to shave the TRE's a little, I have Cragar 15" steels with 3.75bs. Below are pics of the shaved TRE's, my questions is does anyone see these being that much weaker? I really don't think I shaved that much off, just figured I'd get some other peoples opinions: