oh okay good im glad any other ideas out there?

 

no bare spot on cps wiring maybe touching ?

 

not that i can see no

 

It's odd that it happens at a certain RPM.

 

do you have a fuel pressure gauge maybe see if pressure issue at that rpm kinda dought it but gotta think out side the box .

 

exactly strange ....

 

yea when im driving down the road and im cruisin around 35 mph (around 1500 rpms) it stutters-the only reason i know its not the transmission is because you can hear that the engine stutters in the exhaust. doesnt do that in neutral or in park. and also just when im accelerating slowly it stutters-if i put my foot into it and accelerate fast it doesnt do that
i dont have a gauge how much are they?

 

Is it at the same RPM in any gear, or just in OD with torque converter lock-up?

 

only does it in gear read first post wrong thought it said even in neutral annd park.

 

ummmm it does it really bad if i put it in 1-2 and it seems to be just a little better in third and i cant remember for sure but im almost positive it does it in overdrive too but yes always the same rpm

 

i dont know if this makes a difference or not but when it stutters its not enough to make the rpm gauge change at all... you can only hear it in the exhaust and feel it

 

i was just looking through some stuff online and was wondering if there was anyway it could be my camshaft position sensor?

 

You don't have one. Inside your distributor is a sync generator which tells the eCU how to fire the injectors sequentially. Just for fun, unplug your distributor and see if it runs differently.

 

The pickup in the distributor? I believe I've read the engine will run with it disconnected. If that's true, I'd try disconnecting it and see if the symptoms change.

 

On a Renix, it will run. A thought came to me early this morning. When I was at the dealership, we had an 88 or 89 that would buck just a bit at certain speeds/RPMs. The factory had us perform a new at the time procedure called distributor indexing.





Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.
Revised 07/03/2012