you need to do the socket trick.

remove the top bolt, but leave the other two but leave them threaded in a few threads. put the socket on one of them and what i do is use 1/2 inch socket and old ratchet, and turn the steering wheel until the ratchet head comes into contact with the knuckle, make sure it's seated well on the 12pt bolt, then turn the steering wheel with some force until you hear/feel the hub break free.
switch back and forth with the two bolts until it's completely off.

you can also use an extension, but i've only done it this way. comes apart every time. no matter how rusted or seized on they are.

 

i cant even get the 3 bolts that hold the hub assembly in place. one is stripped and the other two and rusted to hell. i tried to remove one and it broke my socket. idk why the **** they would use a 12pt bolt

 

Just bought the ball joint press kit at harbor freight for 60$

 

A ball joint press works great. I don't like the violent hammer and socket route.

 

THat would work great for him if and when he can get the 3 bolts that hold the unit bearing unrusted and out.

 

If their stripped beyond a salvageable grip, he needs to cut the heads off and slide hammer the hub off. There just isn't a way around it. Anytime I get to a high load bolt like that, especially if it hasn't been moved in a while, I take a center punch and smack the head (dead center) a couple times with a 3lb sledge. That does wonders some times.

 

The hammer method can beat up the bearings

 

^ not to mention the yoke, the socket you're using, etc... It's just not the right way to do it.

 

End up with a weakened joint and the ears on the yoke bent. There is use for a hammer. Sometimes the ears on the d.s. get sucked together and you can use a couple hits to spring em out. Not real hard though.

 

compressor+impact wrench makes that un necessary. the hardest part is getting the bearing seperated from the spindle they usually rust themselves in; make sure you remember the anti seize on the outer edge of the bearing flange where it goes into the spindle. that will make it easier for the next time you hafta pull it apart (there WILL be a next time)

 

I usually take a couple passes on the inside of the yoke with a hand file. get rid of any burrs etc;
I usually have the best luck with the hammer and vise method, doing things the "right way" by the book with either a hyd press, or with the C clamp balljoint/U joint press I have "sprung" yokes, as well as with the hammer on anvil or hammer on vise methods.

 

on my old chevy I just tightened the yolk nut about Half a turn, whenever I felt that it was getting loose. got me another 70,000 out of it before it locked up.

 

Ive done dozens with the hammer and socket method, as Im sure others have as well. Is the the RIGHT way? Maybe not, but it works. Im not talking about smashing it with a sledge, Im talking about being careful and hammering them just like like like thousands of other people do just fine. You gotta do what you gotta do. The hammer and socket method has worked for me this long so Ill continue doing it as Im sure others will as well. Its a pretty easy, straight forward and safe way to change a U-Joint without buying specialty tools.

 

^ cool story.

 

might go take it to this guy that i know who has a shop, see if i can work there and use a welder and torch.