Jethro4days

Hey everyone like the title says. I'm replacing a rear brake line this weekend and haven't attempted this before. So any tips would be greatly appreciated. I have purchased 25ft of copper nickle brake line size 3/16, a double flair tool. Tube cutter. I wasn't sure what brake line fittings so I held off. Thanks.

Radi

It's pretty straightforward. I always cut my lines too long and wrap the excess in a small loop at one end. That way I have extra when I inevitably screw up a flare. Life will be easier if you don't let the master cyl reservoir run dry while you're swapping lines.

Ralph77

When you say rear brake line which one? From the rear hose junction box to the wheel clyinders? Or the long one from the proportioning valve to the hose? If you are doing the ones to the wheel cylinders I say do both and the hose too. Check the long line. Just did mine last year. Auto parts stores will know what you need for flares. You will want the longer flares to go into the wheel cylinders. If you are doing the long line I suggest doing it all. Hose and the two lines to the wheel cylinders. Gotta bleed the brakes anyway. Do the long line in 2 pieces with a connector. Will be easier. Again the auto parts store will know what you need. Gravity bleed will be best. Start with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder and work to the closest one. Cap off the master cylinder. Keep the master cylinder full. Now if you have ABS I can not comment on that because I am kinda thinking it is a little more involved. The brake bleeding process that is. Now on my '00 when I did the long line from the proportioning valve to the back I had to buy a adapter for what I think was a bubble flare. Just bring that short piece of line to the auto parts store. Again they will be able to see what you need. Also I know you said you have a brake line flaring tool but I recommend this one. It will only do 3/16" line and is pricey but is foolproof to use. Trust me on this. Napa Service Tool. Part # SER 161A. Do you have a set of flarenut wrenchs? If not get some. This is an easy job just a little time consuming. Be careful go slow all will be fine.

http://www.napaonline.com/p/SER161A

OldTires

Go to NAPA and buy the brake lines with the fittings on them already. This way you don't have to worry about flaring anything. They have plenty of sizes to fit this job.

Keep the old lines and follow the contour of the bends and angles for the new ones. Wear nitrile gloves. Have a healthy supply of them. Brake fluid is nasty.

Also, I didn't realize this until later looking at a picture from another XJ. The top bolt of the differential cover (pumpkin) has a metal bracket that sticks out and holds the brake line when it travels over the pumpkin. Mine had snapped off and I didn't even know it. I still don't have, and I haven't had any issues.

jhc7399

If it is the line over the axle you can get both them from the dealer and they are not that expensive with no cutting or flaring.

t.mcginley.jr

You're doing the rear brake line(s), but how is the main line running from the master cylinder to the rear? It's just behind the frame rail with the fuel lines. Mine was fairly rusted, but it also had 200k miles.