himalayanXJ

i recently convertabled my block (threw a rod) in my 99XJ so i found a donor motor from what i was told was a 99 but the intake mani was different as well as the pick up coil/stator plug, so i put the ones off my old motor onto the new one, i dont know if that is a huge deal or not, from the research ive done these engines dont seem to be different in any other way, but after i got the new motor put back in and piston 1 at TDC and the rotor pointed the best i could at spark plug 1 on the dist. the motor runs like crap it wont idle and i have to hold the throttle wide open for it to run, it seems as if my timing is waaay advanced, i replaced my crank sensor on a hunch and it did nothing i dont know of any thing else it could be help would be awesome thanks

mcguyver_xj

on a obd-II computer controlled engine like ours all you can really set is base timing the pcm compensates for everything else as far as adjustments and since you did a motor swap your pcm probably has to re-learn itself best way to do that is to drive it over 40mph for a few seconds...when my pcm had to re-learn itself i kept cycling the gas pedal to keep it above 1k rpms until it would stay running without pedal then i drove it

himalayanXJ

so you think to just keep it running until i get it over 1k rpm then drive it might work out the kinks?

mcguyver_xj

i have good reason to believe from my personal experience with cars in general and jeeps

DFlintstone

I've heard talk of 40 hot/cold cycles. Also someone said the distributor might change injector timing....maybe that was Renix I know nothing!

mcguyver_xj

there is no magic number of hot/cold cycles or drive cycles it just takes place when the pcm decides for it to take place

truckntractorhick

as long as the base timing is set correctly, then the PCM will do the rest if everything else is in running order.

Slick761

while its true you can't set the timing you can easily index the distributor a tooth off which will cause these exact symptoms. This was discussed in depth about a month ago. Get it to tdc and try again. It isnt something that's gonna work itself out.

himalayanXJ

ok all day ive been messing with the stupid thing and the only way i can get it to run better is to move all plug wires on the dist. counter clockwise but therefore the order of firing is 415362, it fires on all cylinders and sounds great, but it does not get above 1K rpms even with it wide open and my down pipe gets red hot, and it is running super lean so i stopped running it and am reverting back to here..... Is it possible the timing chain could be off a even tho it has never been messed with?!? this timing thing is killing me i cant get it, i need a good ol dist that i can time not the computer!!!!!!

himalayanXJ

is there a link to that thread or do you recall the topic name?

Slick761

If you have to move your wires you distributor is probably off. I'll look for it. A guy went through a lot trying to get it indexed right. Seems to be fairly common.

thakmfb

basically you dont index the rotor button at #1 it is indexed a tooth past #1.

Slick761

Search distributor position. You will find helpful threads.

himalayanXJ

i found the thread i will try how they say todo it but im pretty positive ive already been there done that but i will let everyone know the outcome

himalayanXJ

ok i got the timing figued out by going a tooth past its great but only while it is cold it runs excellent but once it warms up it starts throwing sensors my check engine my check gagues and my airbag light all come on :S also when warm my battery gague drops to nothing :S i just dont get it, but wait theres more.... after about 10 mins of driving my temp gauge redlines and by the time i notice and start to pull over it drops back down to normal $#%#@$^ it also is not shifting until about 4k rpm when warm but fine when cool and the r's will linger at about 2 grand until i come to a stop then will drop so far it almost stalls out but catches back up and idles high then settles back to normal.......... What now ?