scstuntman1

is there any way to set the timing on my jeep by the distributor. my timing is a good bit off and if i can avoid having to take everthing off the front of the motor i would be really happy. i tried to turn the distributor but it wouldn't budge, it seems like there was a pin to keep it in place or something. please help me out with any information
thanks

freegdr

non adjustable why are you trying to move it

scstuntman1

well i was younger and dumber a couple years back and had to replace the crank. looking back on it now im about 99% sure thats why my timing is off. i have hardly no power so it seemed like some retarded timing so i checked it and sure enough it was waayy off. the kicker is that it cranks fine and idles decent. i seen that my haynes manule said it was non adjustable but i was hoping someone might have a trick to do it

tjwalker

Base timing is controlled by the computer.

Unless the distributor has ever been removed, you really should be okay with that.

Describe any actual symptoms you have for comments.

freegdr

are you sur the balancer did not move its a 88 kind getting old check tdc no1 cyl on compression stroke is bestway

A_Jeepr

Make sure the engine is on top dead center when the distributor is installed. Rotor bug should be pointing to # 1 cylinder. Failure to do so will mimic symptoms of incorrect timing. A computer will correct this up to usually 60* crank rotation, but it can only compensate for only so much. On OBDII and up these systems between crank and cam locations is different. Coil over plug system in the 4.0 uses a cam position sensor in place of a distributor.

Think of the Renix ignition as a combination of traditional distributor and and coil over plug.

In '88 there is a ignition pick-up under the rotor bug, this acts as your points, this sensor works with the crank position sensor to say when to fire off an injector and spark plug.

scstuntman1

the reason i think the timing is off is because it has hardly any power and if i drop it to low(1-2) it will not shift to 2nd until i have a constant rpm of 5grand. i also thought it could posibly be the tps but with me pretty much knowing i have it off at the timing gears i just figured thats what it is

freegdr

if you 100percent sure you ftd the gears only one fix get out the wrenchss and set it straight

freegdr

this is why tdc will tell you by which way the rotor pointing

tjwalker

Both of these symptoms can be related to the throttle position sensor. Sure would make sense to at least test it before looking elsewhere. Here's more.

BTW, the delayed shifting you are experiencing until high rpms is a CLASSIC throttle position sensor symptom.
---------------------------------
RENIX TPS
(Thanks to Joe Peters from NAXJA for this information)

MANUAL TRANSMISSION:

RENIX manual transmission equipped XJs have a three-wire TPS mounted on the throttle body. This manual transmission vehicle TPS provides data input to the ECU. The manual transmission TPS has three wires in the connector. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "D" is ground. Remove the three-wire connector from the TPS. Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "D" ground. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Now, reconnect the three-wire connector to the TPS. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage, if you can't achieve the correct output voltage replace the TPS and start over.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:

RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as the manual transmission equipped vehicles--FOR ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES. However, the automatic TPS also has a four-wire connector. For the automatic transmission equipped vehicles the four-wire connector provides data to the TCU. Disconnect the four-wire connector. Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Now, reconnect the four-wire connector to the TPS. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage, if you can't replace the TPS and start over.

So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU. If you have TRANSMISSION issues check the four-wire connector side of the TPS. If you have ENGINE issues check the three-wire connector side of the TPS.

For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced.

scstuntman1

ok so im checking the tps and at closed throttle i have .75v and at WOT i have 3.99v. i tried to adjust it to get closer to the .8v it calls for and it wouldnt get any closer. is this far enough off for that to be my problem...also two more symptoms i have is extended cranking time and when im cruising and slam it to WOT the transmission will not kick down(i have already adjusted the kickdown cable)

freegdr

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm