Tie Rod help? Please
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 279
From: United Kingdom
Year: 1995 RHD
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
Clean up the grease under the boot and take a look at the ball joint where possible. If any orange rust can be seen, scores, pits or anything other than smooth clean metal is found, they are on their way out. The best test past that is to hook the 2 back up to each wheel and use a pry bar carefully and see if the ball joint tries to move up and down in it's socket. You can't always see a fault until you can put force on it. I have a video of the same situation but on my track bar:
CF Veteran


Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 3,402
Likes: 394
From: Connecticut
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If you can move the ball around easily with your hand it is worn and needs to be replaced.
If it is sloppy and clicks when you move it around, it is dangerous and should have already been replaced.
A new TRE is pretty stiff in the socket. If you're still unsure get a new one and you'll have a better handle on what a good ("perfect") TRE feels like.
IMO it's never inappropriate to shoot the parts cannon at front end parts. Been in vehicles that have blew out tie rod ends and ball joints, and believe me, it's inconvenient when it happens.
If it is sloppy and clicks when you move it around, it is dangerous and should have already been replaced.
A new TRE is pretty stiff in the socket. If you're still unsure get a new one and you'll have a better handle on what a good ("perfect") TRE feels like.
IMO it's never inappropriate to shoot the parts cannon at front end parts. Been in vehicles that have blew out tie rod ends and ball joints, and believe me, it's inconvenient when it happens.
If they are very old, its probably best to replace them, as you mentioned you damaged to the boots, and will need new boots anyway
imo, it is much better & easier to use 2 hammers to break the taper, I just did 2 XJ that way, no problems, boot is left intact
imo, it is much better & easier to use 2 hammers to break the taper, I just did 2 XJ that way, no problems, boot is left intact
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 190
Likes: 25
From: Greeneville, Tennessee
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
No the boots were already broke down with age and beginning to crack, this fix began with only replacing the boots
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I have a theory about suspension and brake parts. If one side is bad, chances are the other side will be bad soon anyway. Replace both sides together and have peace of mind. Especially brakes! Don't replace one side without the other, EVER! If it's an emergency repair, fix the other side ASAP.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,700
Likes: 238
From: Groton, MA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Agree with both Daves - You've got the old ones off already, for a relatively low cost you can have new, unworn parts.
I experienced a slight DW situation about a year ago which was enough for me to drop a couple hundred bucks and completely replace the steering system. It's been driving beautifully ever since.
I experienced a slight DW situation about a year ago which was enough for me to drop a couple hundred bucks and completely replace the steering system. It's been driving beautifully ever since.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 190
Likes: 25
From: Greeneville, Tennessee
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I have a theory about suspension and brake parts. If one side is bad, chances are the other side will be bad soon anyway. Replace both sides together and have peace of mind. Especially brakes! Don't replace one side without the other, EVER! If it's an emergency repair, fix the other side ASAP.
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