Tick at idle and oil?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm not an idiot, I know how to check/change oil. I am not going to sit here and argue with you over how long you need to let a vehicle sit before you check it. If you want to write a book on how to check/change oil, then go ahead. I appreciate the thoughts, but its pretty obvious its burning oil or getting into the antifreeze.
Just because you have 8k posts doesn't give you the right to be an ***.
EDIT- You may not have been talking to me, and if you wasn't then I apologize- It rubbed me the wrong way.
Last edited by matholland; Feb 11, 2015 at 03:45 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 486
Likes: 1
From: Lehigh Valley PA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 renix
When have I ever bragged about how many cars I've had? Or did you mean Mat? I haven't had that many... anyway anyone on a vehicle forum will sooner or later mention vehicles they have previously owned, since that is a major part of their experience(s).
Perpetuating the oil myth was not my intent, simply passing on the common consensus of what oil to use in 4.0's as I have read for years on forums. I never believed that a synthetic oil would ruin a 4.0 - I wasn't agreeing to the zinc BS, but simply to the notion that you shouldn't be using synthetics in an older engine. I might have zero data to back up any reasoning, and I will die with zero reasoning after many many years and many many miles of non-synthetic oil usage.
Just like when I mention deleting the stock trans cooler and running hose clamps to a B&M - which I will continue to recommend. It works fine, it doesn't compete with the engine oil in the cooler, and it deletes the trans cooler fittings - something that is a DAILY post on here "someone please help my stupid trans connectors are broken." I'm going to be putting in a trans cooler temp sensor simply to prove my point, since I know having it done on multiple XJ's that I know of isn't a good enough piece of evidence for you, but I've just been lazy.
Perpetuating the oil myth was not my intent, simply passing on the common consensus of what oil to use in 4.0's as I have read for years on forums. I never believed that a synthetic oil would ruin a 4.0 - I wasn't agreeing to the zinc BS, but simply to the notion that you shouldn't be using synthetics in an older engine. I might have zero data to back up any reasoning, and I will die with zero reasoning after many many years and many many miles of non-synthetic oil usage.
Just like when I mention deleting the stock trans cooler and running hose clamps to a B&M - which I will continue to recommend. It works fine, it doesn't compete with the engine oil in the cooler, and it deletes the trans cooler fittings - something that is a DAILY post on here "someone please help my stupid trans connectors are broken." I'm going to be putting in a trans cooler temp sensor simply to prove my point, since I know having it done on multiple XJ's that I know of isn't a good enough piece of evidence for you, but I've just been lazy.
Last edited by Stabsthedrama; Feb 11, 2015 at 02:46 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
WHAT?.....these 2 posts seem to contradict each other. LOL Is it, or is it not burning oil?????......that's the $64K question. All I'm saying is, checking the oil level shortly after a motor has been running/turned off, is not the best/most accurate way to check the oil level AND could lead to thinking that is mistakenly disappearing. Oil is still up in the motor 20 mins after the motor is shut off, thus the oil level will show "lower" on the stick than if the motor sat overnight and then the level was checked prior to starting.
There's plenty of us here that have socks older than u.......but if I came across as being "confrontational", then my bad/my apology. However, u will soon learn that myself and plenty of others here do not "sugar coat" anything.
.......Perpetuating the oil myth was not my intent, simply passing on the common consensus of what oil to use in 4.0's as I have read for years on forums. I never believed that a synthetic oil would ruin a 4.0 - I wasn't agreeing to the zinc BS, but simply to the notion that you shouldn't be using synthetics in an older engine. I might have zero data to back up any reasoning, and I will die with zero reasoning after many many years and many many miles of non-synthetic oil usage.
How about trying to correct/rectify the common consensus that u have read for years, now that u know that common consensus is a myth. Seems to me u said that wise old XJ'er was 100% right when actually he was 100% wrong, regarding using synthetic oil in the 4.0 and older engines, along with the zinc level statements. Either synthetic on conventional oil can be used with both giving excellent results. Saying one or the other should never, ever, ever be used IS JUST WRONG, regardless of how common the consensus is that synthetic should not be used.
Just like when I mention deleting the stock trans cooler and running hose clamps to a B&M - which I will continue to recommend. It works fine, it doesn't compete with the engine oil in the cooler, and it deletes the trans cooler fittings - something that is a DAILY post on here "someone please help my stupid trans connectors are broken." I'm going to be putting in a trans cooler temp sensor simply to prove my point, since I know having it done on multiple XJ's that I know of isn't a good enough piece of evidence for you, but I've just been lazy.
How about trying to correct/rectify the common consensus that u have read for years, now that u know that common consensus is a myth. Seems to me u said that wise old XJ'er was 100% right when actually he was 100% wrong, regarding using synthetic oil in the 4.0 and older engines, along with the zinc level statements. Either synthetic on conventional oil can be used with both giving excellent results. Saying one or the other should never, ever, ever be used IS JUST WRONG, regardless of how common the consensus is that synthetic should not be used.
Just like when I mention deleting the stock trans cooler and running hose clamps to a B&M - which I will continue to recommend. It works fine, it doesn't compete with the engine oil in the cooler, and it deletes the trans cooler fittings - something that is a DAILY post on here "someone please help my stupid trans connectors are broken." I'm going to be putting in a trans cooler temp sensor simply to prove my point, since I know having it done on multiple XJ's that I know of isn't a good enough piece of evidence for you, but I've just been lazy.
With regard to u bypassing/eliminating the OE Factory tranny cooler, like u did, all I ever said was......."maybe u should not recommend to others/newbies on a forum that they eliminate their OE Factory cooler UNLESS they have some way to monitor their tranny fluid temps, just to be on the safe side".
Again, I apologize if I came across confrontational and not providing ample sugar coating.
Last edited by djb383; Feb 11, 2015 at 05:43 PM.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Hey guys! I have had 3 4.0 jeeps, and most of them have ticked, but this one is a little different. This one seems to tap pretty loud when cold until it heats up. When I got the jeep I put some Valvoline 10w-30 in it. I have about 1,500 miles on the oil change and I have added to the oil twice now (I believe 2 quarts of oil total). My exhaust is cut off right after the cat, but from what I can tell, it is not burning any oil, exhaust is not wet at the end, doesn't smoke as far as I can tell (it is cold here right now)...Isn't leaking out...I'm not sure where it is going? Should I use a thicker oil to calm the tick down? It seems like it is valve related, and not the canister clicking like my grand did that I had.
If it does, what happens if you shut it off and then re-start it after 10 seconds?
Same tick, or is it gone/diminished?
Have you ever shined a light into the oil filler hole to assess the sludge build-up?
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 273
Likes: 1
From: Coventry, CT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output, Alabama Cylinder head, 60mm bored TB
If its ticking when warming up and you live in a cold climate thicker oil is NOT the answer. I had 10w40 in my Jeep once and the temps dipped to 20 degrees over night. I started it in the morning and popped the oil cap off to see how long it took for oil to reach the top end. It was awhile before I saw any oil and I changed it out to 5w30 that same day. Much better. You probably just have a lifter that isn't getting pumped up all the way after a cold start. Its a common problem.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If its ticking when warming up and you live in a cold climate thicker oil is NOT the answer. I had 10w40 in my Jeep once and the temps dipped to 20 degrees over night. I started it in the morning and popped the oil cap off to see how long it took for oil to reach the top end. It was awhile before I saw any oil and I changed it out to 5w30 that same day. Much better. You probably just have a lifter that isn't getting pumped up all the way after a cold start. Its a common problem.
If its ticking when warming up and you live in a cold climate thicker oil is NOT the answer. I had 10w40 in my Jeep once and the temps dipped to 20 degrees over night. I started it in the morning and popped the oil cap off to see how long it took for oil to reach the top end. It was awhile before I saw any oil and I changed it out to 5w30 that same day. Much better. You probably just have a lifter that isn't getting pumped up all the way after a cold start. Its a common problem.
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