Crimmy

Hey guys. I finally got my throttle body off and cleaned it! Heres the photos from before















And after cleaning!





















I can see the faintest bit of light past the throttle plate now!





This is one of the problems though. In the last picture there was a vaccume line going into that rubber grommet. I didnt see it when i was removing the throttle body and it broke the vaccume line off. Can i just shove the vaccume line in there or is it something i need to replace?

Also while removing the throttle body i leaned on top of the vaccume harness and broke it... What is the napa part numbers for the vaccum harnesses?

Crimmy

So the hose i broke is one that goes from tb to map sensor. Heard a loud hissing sound when i first started up so i shoeved the hose in best i could but very obviously needs to be replaced. Used electrical tape to tape up the 2 broken vaccume hoses on the harness just for now.

Fired the jeep up and it was idling very strangely at first. Just a slow WUB WUB WUB WUB. But then after a few minuites it smoothed out. It stays stable at around 1krpms now which is a bit high isnt it? Its not surging up or down anymore. I gave it throttle though and the rpm got stuck at 1.2-1.3. Shut it off and started it back up and it was back down to 1k. Not perfect but a HUGE improvement over 1-300rpms i was at.

Rockfrog

Someone has adjusted the throttle stop, hence the daylight. you can see it in the fifth picture. A small Allen wrench (3/32" IIRC) can be inserted from the other side, back it out till the throttle plate is fully closed, then screw it back in until the throttle just starts to move, no more.

As for the map line, 3/16" brake line, bend to shape and insert into the vacuum hole and put the map sensor elbow on the other end. Permanent vacuum line. And fits worn rubber parts better (especially when you can't find a new one). Been running mine over year like that, even did my FPR the same way.

Crimmy

Is that why the idle is at 1k?

DFlintstone

I would handle the vacuum lines first. The throttle stop screw is just to keep the plate from eating a groove in the throttle body. There will be some hair of a gap. (it's in cruisers tips).

Yes, for the MAP tube, with the broken stub out of the hole, you can just shove another tube in there.

I'm not sure of the best way to deal with a broken MAP tube. You can extract that broken stub out of the rubber with a small screw, screwed into it. You can see/test what size screw by looking at the rest of the MAP tube. I happened to have, and used a screw extractor. If course that didn't need left hand thread! From there I pieced together what I had left intact. To make the "L" right there by the TB I heated a section with a lighter to make a bend. A heat gun might work better, that little tube will heat up and burn right away. Mine ended up being three lengths of rigid tube (one on the MAP end, one at the TB, and a middle run), with two short sections of small vacuum line connecting them. The small vacuum line is not a really nice fit on the tube. I put silicone on the tube only, to be sure none ended up inside blocking it.

There may well be something better out there....line for air shocks might take the heat?...Idk!

Rockfrog

Like I mentioned, brake line, cheap, effective, and doesn't burn.

And if that throttle opening is large enough to see daylight it may have some effect on idle if the IAC can't compensate by closing enough.

cruiser54

Post 14 in my Tips, Crimmy.

Crimmy

The location of the butterfly stop screw is that located in picture 10? The hole inside the throttle botty above the butterfly plate?

Rockfrog

No, look in picture number 5, look at the throttle arm itself (outer right) where it touches the square block on the outside of the throttle body. If you look at the throttle stop it's actually a grub screw. On the other side is a hole to insert an Allen wrench.

DFlintstone

Hey! Cool solution. I like that! Thanks. I saw mentioned its a good idea to keep a downward grade on it to the TB. Idea being that if fluid got trapped in it, it could affect how quickly the MAP responded to the vacuum drop. The quicker the better I suppose.

I'm not disagreeing on the gap, should be paper thin. I was suggesting saving checking that last since there are other obvious vacuum issues.

Crimmy

Tried the 3/16" brake line. It seems like it MIGHT fit but itll be tight as hell. I made some bad bends. First time bending tubing. Bought the cutter and bender from harbor freight got my tubing from autozone. Found out my harnesses are under warranty from napa so i got some new ones there yay! Ill have to try the brake line again. My idle when in park is around 1500-2000. Shifting into drive when the rpms are that high isnt a good thing... Ive got work tomorrow so jeep isnt going to be getting used until i have another day off to try and fix this. Almost liked it better the way it was before. The high rpms make the jeep coast at 35 and make it harder to stop as well. Fun times. 1 step forward and 2 steps back in its own right but stickin with it. Almost got a decent jeep on my hands!

DFlintstone

Sometimes this feels like trying to tie your shoes with chopsticks!

If you did take care of the other vacuum leaks, and are still "racing", that throttle plate IS something to check.

Having it change a bunch after shutting it off and re-starting points to the IAC. **Mine was doing that. Removing and cleaning it was not the end answer in my case. It looks that the upward pointing wiring plug on the IAT was not making connection. A good cleaning there is what solved it for me.**

Not much help here on the tubing size...(unless I go out and measure mine). One trick to bend tubing is to put it through two box-end wrenches, then bend a hair every little bit. That can give you a 90* "L" without kinking it. I suppose for 1/8 inch tube, you might want pretty little wrenches! In any case, tubing can be bent in a bunch of little bends.

Crimmy

IAC is brand new. I did have trouble getting the plug to seat all the way though so that is something to check. The rubber boot to waterproof it seemed like it was in the way more or less. I do intend to reseat the throttle plate and i still need to set the TPS. I just bolted it on without checking anything. (i know i know!) My multimeter is garbage so i wanted to wait to borrow the one from work.

Crimmy

Okies! Some updates. For awhile i had to deal with the stupid high idle just so i could get to work. I finally had some time and back probed tps and adjusted it to the right-ish value. Off by .01-.03 volts but i couldnt get it to stay any closer. I started the jeep up and my idle was exactly where it was before. Sprayed starting fluid at the base of the throttle body. RPM shot up. Sprayed it at map sensor tb line it shot up. Pulled the tb and adjusted the throttle stop screw. Made it all the way closed then opened it up at the hint of movement. Used rtv black on the throttle body gasket. Used silicone around the now metal tb to map sensor line. Tested it out for the first time today...

And im right back where we started. The idle is super super low now. Which is somewhat better than being too high. The tranny isnt slamming gears going from park into drive.

In drive the rpms are around 100-300 (according to gauge) Accelerates just fine. The problem where the rpms shoot up 400-700 when i hit the brakes has lessened. However when in park i tested something if i repeatedly hit the brakes as fast as i can i can force the rpms to keep climbing with successive pedal...actuation maneuvericals... So...thats odd. Dunno if it did that before. Didnt have a tach before.

Think i closed the throttle plate too much?

cruiser54

Or your IAC isn't working correctly.

Wanna try something?