same with me. i wish i could buy an sye.. i dont even have wheels on mine yet. still 235s.. eather way try to grab the top of the bolt closest to the uniframe it will give it a bit more strength then holding onto the end of it. make sure you turn it the right way..i left to get more heat and when i came back i turned one of mine the wrong way and it was a PITA by the time i realized it the bolt was more then 1/2 way back in there.

 

even if i get one bolt on there how is that going to help me? i guess i dont follow

 

dewhat? im totaly lost. u gata get all 4 out. and put all 4 new ones with spacers back in. and to answer your question.. one bolt out is one bolt closer to being done.

 

haha i know iknow. hokay so... I have removed all the bolts from the transfer case crossmember.. There is one stud per side that sticks down that i removed the nut from. On the drivers side while removing the nut from the stud the stud sheered off and now I cant get a bolt on the stud. On the other side i just have to find some way to get that stud out so that i can put in the extended studs from the TC drop kit.

That clear things up?

 

So my question is. How do i remove the stud that was sheered when removing the nut?

 

yes.. much better (:
try an ez out, it has never woked for me but ive seen other people work them at their best.. or if worse case drill and retap if you cant get in there with pipewrench or vicegrips.. if they dont work add heat and repeat process..

 

I called and asked about a threaded stud extracter and no where would rent one out and just for the tool it was like 45 bucks! . this thing is just pissin me off.

how much is a tank of MAP by the way?

 

You have to push on the pipewrench head to get it to grip.

 

ya. i was kickin it actually haha. i dont know, it just didnt seem like it wanted to grip it.

 

not really sure.. havent bought a map tank in years.. these were just older ones layin around in my toolbox

 

okay. so MAP didnt work. vise, pipe wrench, dremmel/screw driver trick all didnt work. sooo i ended up haveing to drill and tap. wish i would have just done that from the beginning but what ever its done now. thanks for the help everyone

 

glad to hear you got it out..

 

I know you all ready got it, but I tried it with vise grips and it didnt work. So i went to lowes to try and find something and I got a new set of vise grips that you tighten on there and then tighten more with an allen. Thats how I managed to get mine off if anyone searchs this one again

 

Found this in a search figured I would expand on it for the next poor b@st@rd. Me, my driver's side nut came off of stud. I had PB's it all week. The bolt into frame...sheered. ARGH! Bloody hard to get PB in there....and hard to tell if you are turning or sheering. Damn, I hate being a butcher! Now I have the passenger side. Took the day off to be a back yard wrench. I just sprayed and prayed into the blind frame hole and hoped some PB gets where it needs to be.

Two questions to those that have done this.

First, I suspect an easyout won't work and I will be drilling this thing. How much "meat" of a female thread am I dealing with? Whole bolt spot welded on the blind side or just a thicker part of frame threaded?

Second, the four small bolts in the center of the transfer case holding tranny...I see a prior butcher sheered three and left me one....oh joy...and I had not PB'd that one until just now. What are these going into? If I lose this last one...what will I need to do? My Haynes manual is in the mail....not my hands.

Thanks!

 

I am dealing with this right now.

(1) the studs have a shoulder in the center of their length. This won't pass through the crossmember hole.

(2) The driver's side internal nut is pretty thick, not so much on the passenger side.

(3) I drilled through the outside (Vertical) side of the frame, near and above each bolt/stud. This allowed me to put a nut on the one I stripped also.

(4) I got the driver's to come out using blaster & vise grips. The passenger stud won't budge.