Swapping window regulators/any tips?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 53
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From: Atlanta, GA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I'm going to be swapping over two windows w/ working regulators into my front doors. Does anyone have experience doing this? It seems pretty straightforward as far as removing the old and putting in the new. I'm just curious if anyone would have any tips while I do it? should I use some kind of lubricant on the rails? Anything I should look at while everything's taken out?
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 12
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
If the windows still work, roll them down to where the actual plastic holder thingy is in the recess of the door. Otherwise, you will need manuver your wrench into the access hole in the door to get to the bolts.
Very simple to do - I would lube the screw path of the new assembly so it lasts a while and spins a bit more freely, and if your electrical connectors are dirty, be sure to clean those before reinstalling.
Very simple to do - I would lube the screw path of the new assembly so it lasts a while and spins a bit more freely, and if your electrical connectors are dirty, be sure to clean those before reinstalling.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,170
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From: Australia
Year: 1997 (RHD)
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 ltr
not difficult at all, all bolts involved are the same size. Like advised, let the window down about half way, that way the bracket its attached to comes down nicely for access. The assembly kinda needs some circular movement to remove and install, but you will work that out. what I did after removing the bolts from the bracket, is push the window all the way up and hold it there with some duct tape. Silicone spray the gutter where the 'spiral wire' goes through before install. be aware that the silicone glue kinda stuff they used to attach the plastic shield, if you still have that, is sticky as hell....but the whole R ' R is not a big job.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 53
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From: Atlanta, GA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thanks guys for the help. Would WD-40 be a good lubricant for the track where the worm screw is? Also any other parts I should lubricate while I'm at it?
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 667
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From: napoleon ohio
Year: 98, 00, 01 and another 01
Model: Cherokee
Engine: both 01 jeeps have viper coil pack
I would clean out the bottom inside of the doors at the same time. make sure the drain holes are open and spray a can of undercoating in there.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 17
From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Buy yourself some trim clips you will break a few. If the ones your installing are used I think you said clean them VERY well anything that has lube on it and once clean relube with a OEM type lube.
The last set I removed the guy must have lived on a dirt road that was 25 mi long to his house every day. Had to take them to a car wash and use high pressure on them.
The last set I removed the guy must have lived on a dirt road that was 25 mi long to his house every day. Had to take them to a car wash and use high pressure on them.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 53
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From: Atlanta, GA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Also, I realized I don't know how to remove the actual alternator from the rail/worm screw. My original plan was to just swap over the entire motor/alternator/rail but I've realized my original motors are in better condition and run better than the ones the working alternators are connected to. Any easy solution to just get the alternator?
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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