The pressure line on my AW4 cooler is leaking at the quick disconnect AND crimp.
In addition, the PO has severed the steel lines, and patched them with short rubber hose (and completely bypassed the air radiant cooler!)

I cannot disconnect the hose where it joins the lower radiator fitting, despite having disconnect tools, and trying a sharpie lid

The radiator is still in place, and access is difficult. The quick disconnect tabs have broken off.
Tommorrow, it must be removed, and I have read somewhere that BURNING the plastic disconnect tab is possible?

I propose a pencil butane torch, and toast those plastic suckers to goo...will this allow me to pull the female line fitting off?..(of course I will have water on hand, in case of fire, but the heat is concentrated)

Otherwise, I can (just) get a small cutter or die grinder in there, and grind upon the female metal ferrule, until I can pry it apart ?

I figure method 1 will be quicker if it works, and I can always resort to method 2 if it fails

Supplementary question, the PO did not flare the steel lines. I am wondering if the short male "quick disconnect" has a flare or bubble to help secure the rubber hydraulic line I have?
I will hopefully be able to flare the cut steel line that has been cut, by removing them from the trans, and doing it on bench

Vehicle is RHD

 

Probably some dirt in there binding things up. It may be easier to grind a slot length-wise into the crimped sleeve and pry it open, i would think. You said the crimp is leaking anyway. Dont go too far or you will cut into the other tube. Once youre in there, pry the clip out. When replacing tubes, i like to flare them a little bit, to help the clamp stay put. Peace of mind.

 

Thx for the tip, seems this was partially the cause.

I was finally able to separate them, using a sharpie cap, and spraying degreaser in their for about 5min, also pressing the sharpie cap in with long-nose pliers,
using quite a lot of force, popped both "easy" disconnects...dont give up!

replaced worn & damaged hoses, and plumbed in air cooler, damm me, now I see why they bypassed it in the first place, it is leaking !,,, luckily I have an aftermarket spare that fits

back on the road. Unfortunately, this trans, despite a Service by myself, appears to be showing signs it is may fail, which include;

* takes a few seconds to build pressure on 1st start of day
* usually holds upchanges till high RPM when fluid is cold
* takes ~2secs to pick up reverse
* has occassionaly not picked up reverse without fussing & cursing...this MAY be a selector position issue (hopefully)

I have dropped pan, cleaned filter, flushed fluid, adjusted throttle cable, no change.

trans & engine mounts will be ordered

Vehicle has ~200k miles, fluid was old, has a sticker indicates last fluid change ~60k miles ago

 

You could bypass the in radiator cooler and run straight to the external cooler Just chop the lines at the rad and either plug them or crimp them closed.

 

depending on your location you may want the radiator heat exchanger it helps warm the fluid in the winter as well as cool the fluid when hot

 

although it never freezes here,

I was informed by an individual with excellent automotive knowledge that one of the main functions of a radiator-cooled heat exchanger,
is it is far more effective at absorbing themal peaks than an air cooled heat exchanger, so therefore important in hot weather

Engineers designed the system to function together, however my aftermarket cooler is much larger than stock