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Stripped threading of the drag link at the knuckle

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Old Nov 15, 2020 | 03:40 PM
  #1  
JerpCherooke's Avatar
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Default Stripped threading of the drag link at the knuckle

Upon doing my brakes, I managed to strip the threads in the right knuckle where the caliper bolt threads in, so I grabbed a used knuckle from the pick N pull. I regrettably followed a YT video that suggested slightly threading on the castle nut to the drag link and pounding on the castle nut instead of the stud to drop the drag link from the knuckle. I definitely jacked up the castle nut threading, and looks like I may have jacked up the stud threads a bit too.

Does anyone know what the size and threading pitch of the castle nut on the drag link at the knuckle is? Is it the same size as the tie rod end ones? Part number, if it even has one? If I can find a new replacement nut for cheap, I'd like to try that before I buy an entirely new drag link.

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Old Nov 15, 2020 | 11:46 PM
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Wow. Skimming through your previous posts, I just have to cringe at how many things have gone wrong for you. Stripped threads from tightening instead of loosening, mushroom parts from using a hammer instead of the proper tool, etc. Good news is you're learning and it's not your daily driver, right? Take the buggered nut to the auto store. If they have a new tie-rod end in stock, they can measure the threads for you. I don't know if it's metric or not.

When I haven't had a proper puller handy, I have resorted to threading a sacrificial nut most of the way on, backed off a few turns and whacked on it. The really stuck ones though need a puller to put tension on it and a good whack to the side of the knuckle, and add heat if it's really stubborn.

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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 12:09 AM
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Those are 1/2X20
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 07:06 AM
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hit the bulge around the drag link, on the knuckle itself to drop a drag link/tie rod end. it's an old trick we use in the alignment shops when changing out hard parts. rarely ever need heat or to hit the actual part. if it doesn't drop, grab a bigger hammer.
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 4.3L XJ
Those are 1/2X20
You are my hero. I found one at home depot for $2 and it threads on nicely. I guess I just messed up the castle nut and not the stud threads.




Originally Posted by lawsoncl
Wow. Skimming through your previous posts, I just have to cringe at how many things have gone wrong for you.
... You don't know the half of it . My wallet is cringing too. All good though, definitely learned a lot (can't thank y'all enough for all the help with my rookie questions) and picked up a couple of new useful tools on the way. Was my DD, but the pandemic has given me a chance to finally work on the jeep a bit. Cheers to more things going wrong - I'm sure I'll be posting again soon enough.

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Old Nov 17, 2020 | 01:49 AM
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Use a drilling hammer, which is like a small sledge. Whack the side of the knuckle. If it wont move, hit it harder. I don't think I ever pound on the actual nut/stud. All day every day.
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Old Nov 17, 2020 | 03:50 AM
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AND put the castle nut on upside down next time! That way you don't distort the top of it. If a couple of light blows doesn't drop the joint, then whale on the side of the knuckle.

It's called a drilling hammer because it was originally used with a star punch for drilling holes in rock.

Last edited by dave1123; Nov 17, 2020 at 03:53 AM.
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