Strange problems after head swap
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Lynchburg Va
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Hey guys, so just a few days ago I finished a head swap on my 2000. Thanks 0331. Anyways, after finishing the project, got everything hooked up we let it run for about 30 minutes no problems at all, just the general smoke from all the oil and stuff. I turned it off and let it sit for a while. Later that day I drove it to get gas and the CEL came on, went and got it checked. My Camshaft sensor was throwing a code, so I cleaned it up and the light went away. Well now its gotten worse, it has a very noticeable rough idle, it sputters at acceleration, and the muffler is louder than ever. It all goes away at about 1500rpm. The rough idle will come and go as the Jeep gets warmer. Yesterday I cleaned every single plug and wire I could touch, it didn't go away. I gave the tb a real quick cleaning and the idle was a little less rough.
Are there any ideas out there? Its my DD and I need it to run like a champ.
Are there any ideas out there? Its my DD and I need it to run like a champ.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey guys, so just a few days ago I finished a head swap on my 2000. Thanks 0331. Anyways, after finishing the project, got everything hooked up we let it run for about 30 minutes no problems at all, just the general smoke from all the oil and stuff. I turned it off and let it sit for a while. Later that day I drove it to get gas and the CEL came on, went and got it checked. My Camshaft sensor was throwing a code, so I cleaned it up and the light went away. Well now its gotten worse, it has a very noticeable rough idle, it sputters at acceleration, and the muffler is louder than ever. It all goes away at about 1500rpm. The rough idle will come and go as the Jeep gets warmer. Yesterday I cleaned every single plug and wire I could touch, it didn't go away. I gave the tb a real quick cleaning and the idle was a little less rough.
Are there any ideas out there? Its my DD and I need it to run like a champ.
Are there any ideas out there? Its my DD and I need it to run like a champ.
Occasionally the wiring to/from the PCM/Cam Sensor will get chafed causing intermermittant to full time problems.
Inspect the wire looms at the back of the head for chafing through to the wiring within, and chafing of that wiring.
With the engine running, wiggle the wiring harnesses at the firewall, at the cam sensor, and near the PCM, and see if it causes any change.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Lynchburg Va
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
The head came full, from odessa cylinder. By cleaning I went through and unplugged all the wires, wiped them out, and replugged them back. To be completely honest I can't remember what p it was, the guy just read it off and went inside because it was freezing cold. I checked the looms out, they all still look good. Plastic coating on all of the wires.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 103
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Did you try wiggling wire harnesses with the engne running to see if it made any change?
P0340-NO CAM SIGNAL AT PCM
Set Condition: At least 5 seconds have elapsed with crankshaft position sensor signals
present but no camshaft position sensor signal.
Possible Causes
POSSIBLE CAUSES
CHECKING INTERMITTENT CKP SIGNAL WITH LAB SCOPE
CHECKING INTERMITTENT CMP SIGNAL WITH LAB SCOPE
CHECKING INTERMITTENT WIRING WITH LAB SCOPE
INTERMITTENT CONDITION
5 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
5 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN
5 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
CMP SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED GROUND
CMP SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
CMP SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
CMP SENSOR SIGNAL SHORTED TO 8 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT
SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
PCM - 5 VOLT SUPPLY
PCM - CMP SENSOR SIGNAL
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
The diagnostics procedures calls for using a lab scope nd the DRBIII tool to analyze the problem. It does get into check the 5 volt supply to the cam sensor and reading resistance of the circuit wires.
It finally gets into checking the oil pump drive gear for wear, whch has been known to cause cam sensor problem.
If you have a factory service manual for your XJ it would help a great deal. Without it you are just guessing which will lead to many questions here in this thread and may end up you not getting the answers you need.
P0340-NO CAM SIGNAL AT PCM
Set Condition: At least 5 seconds have elapsed with crankshaft position sensor signals
present but no camshaft position sensor signal.
Possible Causes
POSSIBLE CAUSES
CHECKING INTERMITTENT CKP SIGNAL WITH LAB SCOPE
CHECKING INTERMITTENT CMP SIGNAL WITH LAB SCOPE
CHECKING INTERMITTENT WIRING WITH LAB SCOPE
INTERMITTENT CONDITION
5 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
5 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN
5 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
CMP SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED GROUND
CMP SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
CMP SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
CMP SENSOR SIGNAL SHORTED TO 8 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT
SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
PCM - 5 VOLT SUPPLY
PCM - CMP SENSOR SIGNAL
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
The diagnostics procedures calls for using a lab scope nd the DRBIII tool to analyze the problem. It does get into check the 5 volt supply to the cam sensor and reading resistance of the circuit wires.
It finally gets into checking the oil pump drive gear for wear, whch has been known to cause cam sensor problem.
If you have a factory service manual for your XJ it would help a great deal. Without it you are just guessing which will lead to many questions here in this thread and may end up you not getting the answers you need.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Lynchburg Va
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I tried the wire wiggle thing. It made no difference, when I did it. Tonight on my way home from work, the rear tires at about 45 to 50 mph started to jerk and lunge. I'm parking it until this problem is resolved.
The Jerking and Lunging (bucking) sounds like mine every time another Auto Zone CPS craps out. Just cause the head is new (ish) doesn't mean the rest of it is..
Meter it out or replace it...
Just from my experience..
Meter it out or replace it...
Just from my experience..
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Lynchburg Va
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I understand that just because a new head is in doesn't mean everything is new. I just love how it was timed to happen this way. Whats the best way to test for said sloppy chain
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 12
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Pull the timing cover and check the slack against allowable values.
In my experience, it's probably OK until and unless it jumps time. You'll know it when it does.
In my experience, it's probably OK until and unless it jumps time. You'll know it when it does.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 7
From: California
Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Pull cover. This is what my engine was doing with a failed lifter. Ran well just clacked like crazy. Did a top end rebuild with new cam, lifters, head checked, resurfaced and timing chain.


