stock shock replacement
#1
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Model: Cherokee
stock shock replacement
I have a 95 cherokee country and am in the market for replacement of the shocks. I am not intersested in a lift just good shocks. Is replaceing the leaf springs important because my car seems to bottom out on bumps? It makes a bumpy sound and I can feel that bump through the floor boards. This all started a few montsh ago when I took a four hour trip with four other guys and one of whom weighs about three hundred pounds so i am sure the shcoks are shot. Does any body have any opinions on the best route to take for upgrading and maintaing my stock suspension?
#2
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Location: Eugene, OR
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Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
are the leafs sagging? if not then you dont need to replace them. how much are you willing to spend on shocks? they well the monroe sensatrac shocks and advance auto for pretty cheap. or you can buy much more expensive ones, just depends how much your willing to spend and what kinda ride you want
#4
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The Monroes have a rebate right now if you buy all 4... seems to be worth it since they have a liftime warrenty. I got mine from Pep Boys but location of purchase shouldn't matter since it's a manufact'as rebate. The only issue is if you are going to put a lift later. If so, then obviously go with the cheaper ones as you will probably have to replace them with bigger ones. I paid 40$ each for the rears, putting you at about 120$ all the way around with the rebate. I just changed both rears this weekend because of sag and ride issues. I will say, it pays to soak the nuts/bolts with anti-seize. (any brand you like, WD40 will even do.) Also, a small pair of decent quality Vise-Grips are a must. You will need them to hold the bolt end while loosening the nuts on the 4 top bolts on the shock. When you go to buy the shocks, and have the two new ones fresh from the box, you will see easier how they connect and bolt up. DO NOT cut the plastic retainer/cable on the new shocks until they are completely mounted and have weight on them! (Your shocks will expand and break.) After you have lowered the vechicle, put weight on it, they will then hang loose and can be easily snipped.
The reason I replaced the back two first is because, like you, I just bought it so I'm on a shoestring budget. Also, it allowed me to better assess if the fronts were damaged. I.E. Now that the back is secured, I definitely know that I have to replace the front passenger (hence Both!). Also, there is a rubber bumper pad (not sure of the exact term) that bolts to the frame (Both sides) directly above the rear axel. It stops you from bottoming out and blowing your rear shocks/springs with gross-overloads of weight. One of mine was missing and the other was deformed. (Probably from that juke-box I hauled.) 5 Dollar insurance policies from the dealer.
Hope you might use some of the info, hope I didn't insult by dumbing it down.
Good Luck!
Keep Trucking!
Billy
The reason I replaced the back two first is because, like you, I just bought it so I'm on a shoestring budget. Also, it allowed me to better assess if the fronts were damaged. I.E. Now that the back is secured, I definitely know that I have to replace the front passenger (hence Both!). Also, there is a rubber bumper pad (not sure of the exact term) that bolts to the frame (Both sides) directly above the rear axel. It stops you from bottoming out and blowing your rear shocks/springs with gross-overloads of weight. One of mine was missing and the other was deformed. (Probably from that juke-box I hauled.) 5 Dollar insurance policies from the dealer.
Hope you might use some of the info, hope I didn't insult by dumbing it down.
Good Luck!
Keep Trucking!
Billy
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