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Stock Head bolt installation Lube or Dry?

Old 08-07-2011, 09:27 PM
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Default Stock Head bolt installation Lube or Dry?

So I was reading about the procedure for installing the head bolts on my engine. There seems to be some various opinions floating around. Do I apply a light coat of lube to the threads or do I torque the bolts down dry?

I know lube can skew torque readings,so I was wanting a final answer on this subject. What about antiseize,or RTV or any other kind of sealer? I already know #11 head bolt needs loctite 592 or equivalent thread sealer,and will get torqued to a lessed value than the rest of the bolts.

Im reusing the bolts that were holding the head down. They dont currently have any indicating paint on the heads,so before I reinstall them,ill put a dab of "white out" on them as an indicator that they need to be discarded if the head is to be R&R'D again.
Old 08-07-2011, 10:19 PM
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antiseize will give you true torque readings and eliminate false readings from excessive dry friction.
Old 08-07-2011, 10:25 PM
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Everything I read when I did mine was lock tight.... I dont know why you would want to risk it backing out with never seize. Also you can get a new set of head bolts for like $35 bucks, you shouldn't reuse head bolts...
Old 08-07-2011, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 90_cherokee
So I was reading about the procedure for installing the head bolts on my engine. There seems to be some various opinions floating around. Do I apply a light coat of lube to the threads or do I torque the bolts down dry?

I know lube can skew torque readings,so I was wanting a final answer on this subject. What about antiseize,or RTV or any other kind of sealer? I already know #11 head bolt needs loctite 592 or equivalent thread sealer,and will get torqued to a lessed value than the rest of the bolts.

Im reusing the bolts that were holding the head down. They dont currently have any indicating paint on the heads,so before I reinstall them,ill put a dab of "white out" on them as an indicator that they need to be discarded if the head is to be R&R'D again.
The #11 screw gets the PST, LocTite 592, or whatever other sealant as noted (I use Harvey's Pipe Dope with PTFE - it's easier for me to get, and it's largely the same stuff.)

The other thirteen screws are meant to go in dry. I would, however, get a 1/2"-13x2" screw and use a cut-off wheel to cut 2-4 longwise flutes across the threads; then run the screw in and out of each hole. Use SAE8 screws.

- This will help reform any threads that may have deformed without risking cross-cutting them.
- This will scrape any collected crud out of the threads.

Apart from that, any torque spec given in the manual is for "clean, dry" threads unless specifically specified otherwise (like the harmonic damper screw - 80 pound-feet on clean threads with clean engine oil as lubricant.)
Old 08-07-2011, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny9Inches
Everything I read when I did mine was lock tight.... I dont know why you would want to risk it backing out with never seize. Also you can get a new set of head bolts for like $35 bucks, you shouldn't reuse head bolts...
Quoted and bolded for emphasis...
Old 08-07-2011, 11:38 PM
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I wasn't taking chances with the lock tight, I used blue, and torque them to spec, no issues and no chance of them coming out.
I stand corrected though, if the manual says only on #11 I apologize, i was so spent by the time i was putting it back together, i say lock tight and by god it got it....
Follow the manual... that is what its for.
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