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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Just beware the Harbor Freight one tends to flex when you really start getting it tight. I had to add a clamp to stop the ears from spreading out when I used it to get the pitman arm off. The trick with the puller is to get some tension on it with the puller, then smack the side of the joint with a hammer. Since you're replacing the boot, you don't need to be shy about adding heat either.
Yeah I feel like it just needs enough pressure to kinda break the hold and then it’ll come out (well I think). Just can’t break that hold with my hammer.
Just beware the Harbor Freight one tends to flex when you really start getting it tight. I had to add a clamp to stop the ears from spreading out when I used it to get the pitman arm off. The trick with the puller is to get some tension on it with the puller, then smack the side of the joint with a hammer. Since you're replacing the boot, you don't need to be shy about adding heat either.
X2
Harbor Freight has some really good tools... Hand tools mostly... But STAY AWAY from their pullers and presses. The metal is cheap Chinese and soft! I bought one of the Maddox ball joint service kits from Harbor Freight to do the ball joints on my XJ. It lasted a few turns and completely bent the C-frame press. If you want the right tool for the job, either rent or buy the tool from your local Auto Zone, Advance, or Amazon. The company is called Powerbuilt. It's the real deal. It'll hold up!
I Got "The Cure!" installed today. The instructions warn about installing it at the knuckle. It seals very well. After installation I wanted to ensure the joint still had plenty of grease. I pulled the trigger three times on my grease gun. No grease leaked out, but I could feel resistance building in the gun. I took the Jeep on a drive to town and back. I had to simulate I was holding my wife's hand, because she's at work, but that is when I notice the vehicle wandering the most. I found a significant reduction in the vehicle wandering. Mine has wandered at lower speeds and tightens up at freeway speed. As designed the left front wheel has a little independents from the right front wheel. Being allowed to track slightly different causes the wander. The flopping back and forth (up and down) of the drag ling to tie rod tube joint allows this free play. This little device eliminates/restricts the wasted movement of that joint. I don't think "The Cure!" will take slop out of the steering wheel if you have some, but it significantly reduced my Jeep's previous wander. I was able to drive comfortably with just one hand - even when slightly speeding I noticed a Sheriff was behind me.
[QUOTE=dmoe69;3674966]I Got "The Cure!" installed today. The instructions warn about installing it at the knuckle. It seals very well. After installation I wanted to ensure the joint still had plenty of grease. I pulled the trigger three times on my grease gun. No grease leaked out, but I could feel resistance building in the gun. I took the Jeep on a drive to town and back. I had to simulate I was holding my wife's hand, because she's at work, but that is when I notice the vehicle wandering the most. I found a significant reduction in the vehicle wandering. Mine has wandered at lower speeds and tightens up at freeway speed. As designed the left front wheel has a little independents from the right front wheel. Being allowed to track slightly different causes the wander. The flopping back and forth (up and down) of the drag ling to tie rod tube joint allows this free play. This little device eliminates/restricts the wasted movement of that joint. I don't think "The Cure!" will take slop out of the steering wheel if you have some, but it significantly reduced my Jeep's previous wander. I was able to drive comfortably with just one hand - even when slightly speeding I noticed a Sheriff was behind me.[QUOTE]
Yes. I think it is worth the cost and performs as advertised.
so I got the puller tool and pushed the bolt through slightly, then when went to loosen the nut the whole bolt just spun….. new tie rod end I guess 😂😂😂
[QUOTE=Cutty;3674236]Nothing seemed to be loose under there from the back-n-forth mate.... any other ideas?
Just because you can't see any play doesn't mean they aren't causing your problem. Four of the five ball studs on my '96 had no tension on them at all but I could see no play. Check out how much tension the ball stud has on a new tie rod.
Nothing seemed to be loose under there from the back-n-forth mate.... any other ideas?
Just because you can't see any play doesn't mean they aren't causing your problem. Four of the five ball studs on my '96 had no tension on them at all but I could see no play. Check out how much tension the ball stud has on a new tie rod.
Thanks, I’ll check them next.
As above, used a puller tool to get the bolt out the tie rod at the drag link and think I snapped the bolt….. it just keeps spinning.
I believe what you are calling the bolt is the tapered ball stud, which is threaded on the end (and drilled for the cotter pin). It should be kinda snug. If it is spinning by hand - it might be time for a new one.
I believe what you are calling the bolt is the tapered ball stud, which is threaded on the end (and drilled for the cotter pin). It should be kinda snug. If it is spinning by hand - it might be time for a new one.
I think the puller slipped and put a bump in the thread, then I turned the nut on it and it’s threaded the nut…. Doesn’t turn by hand, only when it caught the thread
If it is just one of the first couple threads that are buggered up you might be able to use an awl (ice pick) in the cotter pin hole to keep it from turning while you chase the thread.
If it is just one of the first couple threads that are buggered up you might be able to use an awl (ice pick) in the cotter pin hole to keep it from turning while you chase the thread.
Got a new nut and it just won’t go…. Fark it! I’ll have to buy a new end, which isn’t so bad as it probably needs them.
No harder than what you just did. If you get both ends you'll have to remove the joint at the left knuckle (same process). You'll also have to measure the distance between the tie rod end studs before you unscrew either. You will want to get the new ones as close to the "as removed" dimension as possible. Typically an alignment would be in order after altering steering components, but there is not a lot of adjusting to do on an XJ.
