Get a wrench in where? it's all fully exposed?

 

im still trying to loosen it, its rusted pretty good, but I have almost no room to maneuver a wrench in there wit the other bars around

 

idk they are just being a ***** i guess

 

I know...I'd give the world for another inch of space (well space and.....)

You'll just have to work it the best you can. Maybe a breaker bar and a socket if the nuts are on the top (the bars knuckle usually pivots past 90 degrees).

If the nuts are really rusted, I hope you can break the collar free once you get the clamps loose.

 

Grease is a steering system's best friend. I grease all the TRE and adjustment sleeves before winter.

I have the facotry skid on mine and can get a combo wrench in there no problem. Try jacking the body up and placing it on jack stands. Lower the axle down and that should get you some extra room.

 

Great to hear turning the drag link worked for you. I might give it a try to. My steering wheel is also off centre. I don't think it's an allignment issue. Car drives and brakes fine, no uneven wear on the tyros.

When you adjust the drag links you basically,through the steering house, rotate the steering wheel back into the correct position.

Just wondering; does that mess up in any way the automatic indicator return?

Jeroen

 

If you're talking about the turn signal lever and it's auto cancel feature, I don't think so...

I think that's all done close to the steering wheel.

 

Well, gave it a try just now. Within 10 minutes I had my steering wheel perfectly straight! Didn't even have to jack the car up. I could get at the bolts just from the front, lying on the ground.

Turned it the wrong way first, made it worse, but then in two more attempts got it perfect!

Thanks, excellent tip.

Jeroen

 

Good deal

The triumph of man over machine ROCKS!!!!

 

actually it is not a real sliding. it fells like that. i was talking about rear track bar.


i have no limited slip diff at back. One of rear wheels can easily be rotated on lift. other turns to other direction. it is 4.0 laredo.

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about adjusting steering wheel with those clamps on drag link. can someone tell me after removing bolts, what should i do? i do not think that it will move freely due to little rust. will WD40 help?

 

You don't have to remove the bolts in the clamps. Just loosen them. Once loose, try to turn the sleeve connecting the 2 rods together. If the sleeve won't move, options are lubrication (most here swear by PB Blaster), heat or a BF wrench. Once you break the collar free, turn it a little either way and see what effect it had on the steering wheel. You'll probably have to make adjustments a couple times before the steering wheel is straight.Once adjusted, rotate the collars so the opening lines up with the "slice" on the sleeve and tighten. Good to go.

 

To the guys trying to get the steering wheel straight ,has your steering wheel ever been removed? That is the easyst way they get off center.take your horn button off and look at the end of the top end of the steering shaft ,mine has a mark indicating that is the top ,your steering wheel also has that mark. Check and see if they are a lined .

 

if one will remove steering wheel nut, if there is an airbag, remove negative cable from your battery. at least it can trigger a caution light on dashboard.

another note, if you remove steering wheel nut you need to replace it with a new one. standard procedure for steering wheel removal.

 

Yeah....I had a Jeep like that. Impossible to align via the drag link. Open up the horn and sure enough, alignment marks on both the shaft and the wheel which weren't aligned.

 

Yeah I forgot the new jeeps have air bags ,didn't know about the new nut though .