Hoping someone here can help with this... as I'm not sure what to check next to resolve this pain in the butt steering issue.
99 XJ, 4.0, LHD, 4WD, currently sitting on 235s

Issue: Even with driving a straight stretch of road that does not visually appear to have much or any center crown to it... the jeep slowly will drift to the right and I have to keep about an inch give or take of steering wheel correction to the left to keep it going straight either consistently or fairly short intervals. I don't believe this to be normal. It is starting to cause premature wear on the outside edges of the front tires. Plus the extra stress that it may be putting on the steering linkage as a whole.
Facts:
1. Tie rod ends were replaced about 3 years ago with just standard OEM equivalent parts for the orig. 20 yr old worn out parts.
2. Only about 7-8k has been put on her since then so low mileage on the replacements.
3. Visually inspected the boots are all in good condition (didn't disconnect any to see about possible play in the tie rod end itself as low mileage and age since replacement)
4. I did recently have to replace the tie rod end that attaches at the drop pitman arm. The boot was split. I think the over stress from having to constantly correct while driving (not sure)
5. The replacement at the drop pitman arm was done with an upgraded from OEM that looks a lot stronger/beefier than the orig. one that I got from a different source... no dura-crap here...
6. Steering box... about 1.5 years ago I stopped going down the reman. rabbit hole and got a Redhead box. So far seems to be holding up best I can tell. The drifting is only to one side (the right)...not slop back and forth like a worn steering box.
7. Just last week after I replaced the one tie rod end mentioned above, I got the jeep aligned.
8. I had already checked the wheels for play with the ball joints and really didn't feel any play at all on either side. (so think those are still good) This jeep only has about 108k orig. miles on it to date.
9. After the alignment, it seems that it cut the issue roughly in half. I still have to correct, but doesn't seem as often.
10. No death wobble either... the track bar was replaced at the same time as the tie rod ends couple years ago.

What the heck do ya'll think needs to be checked out at this point? This is causing undue wear on the tires (which I want to upgrade to different size, but not because something is wrong as it would hose those too)
and yes for the record as to not assume anything... air pressure was already checked to be even.
And as I've never been a fan of the parts cannon, that's why I've posted here ahead of that.......

 

You haven't mentioned anything about the brakes. What's their status?

 

And have you ever fixed the knuckle groove by the brake pads? If not, take a look there.

 

I had similar symptoms, but might not be the same cause. Part was uneven pressures in front tires (10 psi difference) but correcting that didn't fully correct the issue. Uneven wear between the front tires seems to be the culprit. It didn't even change when I swapped sides with front tires. However, when I got some new tires with matching tread on the front, everything straightened out.

 

I did the brakes all 4 wheels same time I did the steering/suspension work. About 3 years ago when I got her...and have put less than 10k on the jeep since then.
I believe all of that to be adjusted correctly. nothing hung up that would cause the issue....but good to mention that... I had not stated that in my orig. post.

 

All 4 are matching Goodyear Wranglers... I know... cheap and old tread design..but they were almost new when I bought the jeep so figured I'd run them until they either wore out or they sucked enough to make me want to change them out.
so far they've been decent for my needs.

 

Please elaborate... not sure if I follow... thanks.

 

Here you go:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/brake-question-257169/

Have you tried rotating the tires?

 

Lots of people say I am wrong, but check the castor right and left. I am sure you will find a difference, less castor on the passenger side. It is most noticeable with lifts that have long coils the bow on one side and not the other. It is about a 1.5° difference, and it makes it pull to the right. You can correct it with an offset upper ball joint or live with it

 

Already did the rotation... checked out that thread... will have to check the jeep later to see if that is an issue on mine.
with the castor angles.. I would think that would be set correctly now as I just had the front alignment done... and for lift... I don't really consider it "lifted"... at a mild 2" one on 235s, and longer new shocks on the OEM springs up front.

 

Check this post out about it: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/wal...repair-182084/
I did not notice it when I first did my brakes but after reading about it, spotted it while doing my UJ's earlier this year. My 1-1.5 year old pads had worn at a major visibly noticable angle. I hadn't been affected by any braking or dragging issues but a pad stuck into the groove could certainly cause binding. It's an easy fix with a welder and a file. Very common on our XJ's as they didn't have the now standard stainless steel intermediate plate between the carrier and pads.

 

I have had my Jeep pull to one side numerous times. Here were the
causes, or at least the things we fixed or replaced:

Tires not inflated equally. Most common cause.
Bad hub/unit bearing. This happened more than once.
Bad tire (damage to inner cords, tire deformed). Two or three times.
Caliper not releasing, replaced the piston. One time.
Bad pitman arm. The hole was worn sloppy and steering wandered.
Steering box bolts were loose and steering wandered.

 

Man... I hope that's not it... simple fix if it is...but I'm not a welder so no doing that one myself if it's the case here.

 

If it was, I know if someone came into my work just to do that job, they'd not be charged much. An hours labour tops, although I've read a lot of high hourly rates posted in the states. We charge £35 per hour and before this year, it had been £30 per hour for at least 10 or so years.

It's easy enough to check out yourself to rule it out anyway.

 

above answer is accurate

If after you have checked all other things,

In addition, measure very accurately the wheelbase, left to right

You may well find they are not the same (even from factory)

This can be corrected as stated above, and/or shim one side, or adjust LCA and UCA just a touch (if you have adjustables)