Steering Knuckle Stuck
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Steering Knuckle Stuck
I'm trying to take my steering knuckle off to replace it since it has stripped threads on one of the caliper mounting holes. I've got the unit bearing off (thanks to the steering + 2" bolt trick), pulled my axle shaft, disconnected the steering linkage up front. I've pounded pretty damn hard on the knuckle near the top ball joint on the little metal flange thingy. I got the knuckle to come loose on the upper ball joint pin but the lower one is really stuck. I don't wanna replace the ball joints cuz I don't have a press so I'm trying to avoid the pickle fork fiasco.
Does anyone have any tips/tricks for getting the steering knuckle off the lower ball joint, aside from swing harder? I've searched and "swing harder" seems to be the only real trick people have offered? Thanks!
Does anyone have any tips/tricks for getting the steering knuckle off the lower ball joint, aside from swing harder? I've searched and "swing harder" seems to be the only real trick people have offered? Thanks!
#3
Hi Potato Walker
I read thru your post hurryedly, so maybe I missed something.
If your purpose is to correct the stripped female thread, were you not able to 1) re-tap it, or 2) install an insert (Heli-coil) in it ? Either of which could be accomplished with the piece remaining in place ? No ?
I read thru your post hurryedly, so maybe I missed something.
If your purpose is to correct the stripped female thread, were you not able to 1) re-tap it, or 2) install an insert (Heli-coil) in it ? Either of which could be accomplished with the piece remaining in place ? No ?
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Year: 1987
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Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Maybe hit it with copious amounts of PB Blaster and then try your pickle fork or BFH on it. If you have the pins out and castlenuts off of both your upper and lower balljoints, only rust and crud is holding the knuckle on.
#5
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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still stuck...
hi thank you for your replies! I've got all the nuts off and everything. Yep it's pretty much just stuck on there real good with rust and crud from years of being on there. Jeep came from Vermont too, so the road salt thing is probably my main problem, that and the PO's neglect. I can see the top one move when I hit it so it's come loose and it's just the bottom one stuck.
I've been heating the bottom ear with a torch and banging the top so much the flat part you bang on is starting to deform. Spent the better part of the day on it with no luck. It hasn't ovalized the bearing seat yet so I could still use it and try the heli-coil. I don't really trust them though, I've seen them pull out. But it's not a linear pulling force so I may have to settle if I can't get my nice shiny new knuckle on there.
I'm letting the PB blaster soak in some more overnight and gonna try more heat and BFH tomorrow. If it doesn't cooperate, I'll probably put my new bearings on the old knuckle and just try a heli-coil for the caliper. The hole is pretty stripped to the point where I can push the bolt all the way through easily so I doubt I could re-thread it without adding material somehow. I have no welding access. I'm kinda scared to try a pickle fork because I don't wanna hurt the ball joint...
Is there any kind of press or puller that would be able to get on there maybe?
I've been heating the bottom ear with a torch and banging the top so much the flat part you bang on is starting to deform. Spent the better part of the day on it with no luck. It hasn't ovalized the bearing seat yet so I could still use it and try the heli-coil. I don't really trust them though, I've seen them pull out. But it's not a linear pulling force so I may have to settle if I can't get my nice shiny new knuckle on there.
I'm letting the PB blaster soak in some more overnight and gonna try more heat and BFH tomorrow. If it doesn't cooperate, I'll probably put my new bearings on the old knuckle and just try a heli-coil for the caliper. The hole is pretty stripped to the point where I can push the bolt all the way through easily so I doubt I could re-thread it without adding material somehow. I have no welding access. I'm kinda scared to try a pickle fork because I don't wanna hurt the ball joint...
Is there any kind of press or puller that would be able to get on there maybe?
#6
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The pickle fork should not hurt the ball joint may well prolly will rip the boot but u can get them in the help section at ur local parts house. In my job I have used heli coils on rear ends head bolt holes in the block, exhaust manifold to head and turbo to manifolds with no problem .... So if it works on a big rig the jepp wont be an issue...
#7
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Year: 1987
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Sounds like it might just be time for you to start checking the junkyards for another XJ D30. You'd probably be better off finding one locally there in Colorado that hasn't been driven on the roads of the north east.
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#8
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Year: 1999
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The continental divide...
Thanks for the suggestion! I ask myself why I don't do that (just about every time I take a wrench to it) and I always figure if I make that decision then I might as well just sell my rusty rocker panels & floors, rusty rear axle, rusty springs, bumpers and the whole rest of it and just get me a rust-free XJ altogether. I just don't have the money at this point and where I live it's at least a 2-3 hour drive to any JY or car lots. I figured I should at least fix my driveline/brakes enough so it's safe to drive over the continental divide - cuz that's what's between me and pretty much everything! I was hoping to eventually find the $$ and another 96 so I can use the rust-bucket for parts/experiments....
There may also be some kind of obsession/vendetta involved, i.e. me vs. rust!
There may also be some kind of obsession/vendetta involved, i.e. me vs. rust!
#9
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Well I wish you all the luck, bro. I have sworn off buying any vehicle from the North East. I wish they didn't salt the roads there. Snow Plows work just fine out here in Washington State....and I'd be willing to bet they don't get near as much snow as you all in Colorado get.
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I know, my jeep would be so much sweeter without all the rust. It really is a shame what salt does to cars. They just use sand around here in CO for the most part. I think they use all the salt because of the glare ice - there's a lot more of that in the NE. Still sux. I lived there 9 years and had salt destroy both my impreza and my ranger. Only thing good is once I finally do find me a rust free XJ it'll actually be fun working on it instead of the grudge match I have now!
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I know, my jeep would be so much sweeter without all the rust. It really is a shame what salt does to cars. They just use sand around here in CO for the most part. I think they use all the salt because of the glare ice - there's a lot more of that in the NE. Still sux. I lived there 9 years and had salt destroy both my impreza and my ranger. Only thing good is once I finally do find me a rust free XJ it'll actually be fun working on it instead of the grudge match I have now!
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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I'm trying to take my steering knuckle off to replace it since it has stripped threads on one of the caliper mounting holes. I've got the unit bearing off (thanks to the steering + 2" bolt trick), pulled my axle shaft, disconnected the steering linkage up front. I've pounded pretty damn hard on the knuckle near the top ball joint on the little metal flange thingy. I got the knuckle to come loose on the upper ball joint pin but the lower one is really stuck. I don't wanna replace the ball joints cuz I don't have a press so I'm trying to avoid the pickle fork fiasco.
Does anyone have any tips/tricks for getting the steering knuckle off the lower ball joint, aside from swing harder? I've searched and "swing harder" seems to be the only real trick people have offered? Thanks!
Does anyone have any tips/tricks for getting the steering knuckle off the lower ball joint, aside from swing harder? I've searched and "swing harder" seems to be the only real trick people have offered? Thanks!
#15
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Year: 1999
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I just removed my knuckle this weekend. Was a nightmare and thought it would NEVER come off. Hear a tip hear or there about and it worked:
Get two sledge hammers. Place one directly on the flat "hit me" tab on the knuckle. Keep it there and hit the hammer (sledge one) with your second sledge. It will come off. Kind of works like a reverse slide hammer, kinda....
You will still have to hit it hard, but two sledges at HF for $8.00 each made it happen.
Get two sledge hammers. Place one directly on the flat "hit me" tab on the knuckle. Keep it there and hit the hammer (sledge one) with your second sledge. It will come off. Kind of works like a reverse slide hammer, kinda....
You will still have to hit it hard, but two sledges at HF for $8.00 each made it happen.