Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.

Steering Knuckle Stuck

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-27-2011, 02:23 PM
  #1  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Potatowalker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colorado Rocky Mountains
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default Steering Knuckle Stuck

I'm trying to take my steering knuckle off to replace it since it has stripped threads on one of the caliper mounting holes. I've got the unit bearing off (thanks to the steering + 2" bolt trick), pulled my axle shaft, disconnected the steering linkage up front. I've pounded pretty damn hard on the knuckle near the top ball joint on the little metal flange thingy. I got the knuckle to come loose on the upper ball joint pin but the lower one is really stuck. I don't wanna replace the ball joints cuz I don't have a press so I'm trying to avoid the pickle fork fiasco.

Does anyone have any tips/tricks for getting the steering knuckle off the lower ball joint, aside from swing harder? I've searched and "swing harder" seems to be the only real trick people have offered? Thanks!
Old 07-27-2011, 04:55 PM
  #2  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Potatowalker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colorado Rocky Mountains
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

anyone?
Old 07-27-2011, 05:47 PM
  #3  
Member
 
webb'scherokee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Default

Hi Potato Walker

I read thru your post hurryedly, so maybe I missed something.

If your purpose is to correct the stripped female thread, were you not able to 1) re-tap it, or 2) install an insert (Heli-coil) in it ? Either of which could be accomplished with the piece remaining in place ? No ?
Old 07-27-2011, 05:51 PM
  #4  
CF Veteran
 
BuckB91XJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Oak Harbor, WA.
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Default

Maybe hit it with copious amounts of PB Blaster and then try your pickle fork or BFH on it. If you have the pins out and castlenuts off of both your upper and lower balljoints, only rust and crud is holding the knuckle on.
Old 07-27-2011, 07:47 PM
  #5  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Potatowalker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colorado Rocky Mountains
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default still stuck...

hi thank you for your replies! I've got all the nuts off and everything. Yep it's pretty much just stuck on there real good with rust and crud from years of being on there. Jeep came from Vermont too, so the road salt thing is probably my main problem, that and the PO's neglect. I can see the top one move when I hit it so it's come loose and it's just the bottom one stuck.

I've been heating the bottom ear with a torch and banging the top so much the flat part you bang on is starting to deform. Spent the better part of the day on it with no luck. It hasn't ovalized the bearing seat yet so I could still use it and try the heli-coil. I don't really trust them though, I've seen them pull out. But it's not a linear pulling force so I may have to settle if I can't get my nice shiny new knuckle on there.

I'm letting the PB blaster soak in some more overnight and gonna try more heat and BFH tomorrow. If it doesn't cooperate, I'll probably put my new bearings on the old knuckle and just try a heli-coil for the caliper. The hole is pretty stripped to the point where I can push the bolt all the way through easily so I doubt I could re-thread it without adding material somehow. I have no welding access. I'm kinda scared to try a pickle fork because I don't wanna hurt the ball joint...

Is there any kind of press or puller that would be able to get on there maybe?
Old 07-27-2011, 08:53 PM
  #6  
Member
 
lngliv3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Newport Michigan
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Default

The pickle fork should not hurt the ball joint may well prolly will rip the boot but u can get them in the help section at ur local parts house. In my job I have used heli coils on rear ends head bolt holes in the block, exhaust manifold to head and turbo to manifolds with no problem .... So if it works on a big rig the jepp wont be an issue...
Old 07-27-2011, 11:53 PM
  #7  
CF Veteran
 
BuckB91XJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Oak Harbor, WA.
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Default

Sounds like it might just be time for you to start checking the junkyards for another XJ D30. You'd probably be better off finding one locally there in Colorado that hasn't been driven on the roads of the north east.
Old 07-28-2011, 08:59 AM
  #8  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Potatowalker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colorado Rocky Mountains
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default The continental divide...

Thanks for the suggestion! I ask myself why I don't do that (just about every time I take a wrench to it) and I always figure if I make that decision then I might as well just sell my rusty rocker panels & floors, rusty rear axle, rusty springs, bumpers and the whole rest of it and just get me a rust-free XJ altogether. I just don't have the money at this point and where I live it's at least a 2-3 hour drive to any JY or car lots. I figured I should at least fix my driveline/brakes enough so it's safe to drive over the continental divide - cuz that's what's between me and pretty much everything! I was hoping to eventually find the $$ and another 96 so I can use the rust-bucket for parts/experiments....

There may also be some kind of obsession/vendetta involved, i.e. me vs. rust!
Old 07-28-2011, 09:57 AM
  #9  
CF Veteran
 
BuckB91XJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Oak Harbor, WA.
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Default

Well I wish you all the luck, bro. I have sworn off buying any vehicle from the North East. I wish they didn't salt the roads there. Snow Plows work just fine out here in Washington State....and I'd be willing to bet they don't get near as much snow as you all in Colorado get.
Old 07-28-2011, 10:15 AM
  #10  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Potatowalker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colorado Rocky Mountains
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

I know, my jeep would be so much sweeter without all the rust. It really is a shame what salt does to cars. They just use sand around here in CO for the most part. I think they use all the salt because of the glare ice - there's a lot more of that in the NE. Still sux. I lived there 9 years and had salt destroy both my impreza and my ranger. Only thing good is once I finally do find me a rust free XJ it'll actually be fun working on it instead of the grudge match I have now!
Old 07-28-2011, 01:48 PM
  #11  
Member
 
retread's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Milw.Wi.
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 93'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Default

cut it it's being replsced
Old 07-28-2011, 02:23 PM
  #12  
Member
 
blinkbears's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Potatowalker
I know, my jeep would be so much sweeter without all the rust. It really is a shame what salt does to cars. They just use sand around here in CO for the most part. I think they use all the salt because of the glare ice - there's a lot more of that in the NE. Still sux. I lived there 9 years and had salt destroy both my impreza and my ranger. Only thing good is once I finally do find me a rust free XJ it'll actually be fun working on it instead of the grudge match I have now!
I hear ya. WOrkin on my XJ has been a nightmare because of all the rust.
Old 07-28-2011, 06:43 PM
  #13  
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
 
Potatowalker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colorado Rocky Mountains
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

Originally Posted by retread
cut it it's being replsced
My floors and rockers? soon enough, soon enough.
Old 07-28-2011, 07:19 PM
  #14  
CF Veteran
 
freegdr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Broward County Fl.
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 22 Posts
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Default

Originally Posted by Potatowalker
I'm trying to take my steering knuckle off to replace it since it has stripped threads on one of the caliper mounting holes. I've got the unit bearing off (thanks to the steering + 2" bolt trick), pulled my axle shaft, disconnected the steering linkage up front. I've pounded pretty damn hard on the knuckle near the top ball joint on the little metal flange thingy. I got the knuckle to come loose on the upper ball joint pin but the lower one is really stuck. I don't wanna replace the ball joints cuz I don't have a press so I'm trying to avoid the pickle fork fiasco.

Does anyone have any tips/tricks for getting the steering knuckle off the lower ball joint, aside from swing harder? I've searched and "swing harder" seems to be the only real trick people have offered? Thanks!
get bigger hammer
Old 07-28-2011, 09:24 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
Vincenza V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 759
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

I just removed my knuckle this weekend. Was a nightmare and thought it would NEVER come off. Hear a tip hear or there about and it worked:

Get two sledge hammers. Place one directly on the flat "hit me" tab on the knuckle. Keep it there and hit the hammer (sledge one) with your second sledge. It will come off. Kind of works like a reverse slide hammer, kinda....

You will still have to hit it hard, but two sledges at HF for $8.00 each made it happen.


Quick Reply: Steering Knuckle Stuck



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:47 AM.