Steering effort between XJ years HELP!!
The steering on my 96 was getting stiffer and stiffer, and I was having return-to-center problems after turns. After extensive troubleshooting, I was about to replace the steering gear. One of my friends (who works at Advance) got the part for me, but asked me to try swapping my fluid out before throwing in the towel. I had been running generic multi-spec power steering fluid, and he recommended going back to ATF+4 or Mopar Power Steering Fluid +4 (or a commercial equivalent such as Valvoline maxlife multi-vehicle ATF). I had nothing to lose, so I gave it a try. It made an immediate difference. The steering effort improved considerably, and the vehicle had no problem returning to center after the change.
Summary, if you are running generic off-the-shelf power steering fluid, give ATF+4 (or the maxlife I mentioned) a shot before swapping parts out. If you are already running ATF+4, Mopar Power Steering Fluid +4, or the maxlife. You can disregard this advice.
Summary, if you are running generic off-the-shelf power steering fluid, give ATF+4 (or the maxlife I mentioned) a shot before swapping parts out. If you are already running ATF+4, Mopar Power Steering Fluid +4, or the maxlife. You can disregard this advice.
I have done brake fluid changes by just gravity bleeding. The best time is when the front calipers are off and you put the bleeder down to do it. I have never done a steering fluid change...I am guilty as charged.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Have an air compressor?
Do the hillbilly power steering fluid change. Maybe twice and report back.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,139
Likes: 93
From: Syracuse, NY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
True. The generic fluid was getting scorched quickly. Probably in my case there is a problem with the gear or pump that the fluid swap is buying some time on. My 96 only had 49k when I bought it 3 years ago, so it did a lot of sitting. For now, the solution is working (has been for about 2 years now). But i'm sure whatever problem I'm masking (probably bad seals in the pump) will eventually work its way to the surface again.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
True. The generic fluid was getting scorched quickly. Probably in my case there is a problem with the gear or pump that the fluid swap is buying some time on. My 96 only had 49k when I bought it 3 years ago, so it did a lot of sitting. For now, the solution is working (has been for about 2 years now). But i'm sure whatever problem I'm masking (probably bad seals in the pump) will eventually work its way to the surface again.
Actually that is not stock, theay are bfg all terrains 30" My 94 had 33"s and had no issues. So I am not thinking tires. MY buddy has a 2001 and is bone stock and has my same complaint. BTW the ZJ box is what you recommend? That is a quicker ratio? Still has ease of steering?
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Actually that is not stock, theay are bfg all terrains 30" My 94 had 33"s and had no issues. So I am not thinking tires. MY buddy has a 2001 and is bone stock and has my same complaint. BTW the ZJ box is what you recommend? That is a quicker ratio? Still has ease of steering?
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
Thank you, I have gone thru that thought process and understand how it all works. I guess I wanted to check in first to see if anyone went thru this and has a "for sure". I was thinking that I would have to start with the box first. My thought was to get a used box cheap from an older jeep. You said something besides a Jeep? I want to go bolt in with no mods. This is a stock rig and a daily driver.
Jim
Jim
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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 3,539
Likes: 416
From: SoCal
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Yes I took the gamble on a reman box. Not sure what other vehicles it fits. But it is a Delphi # 19321370. Been going good for nearly 10k miles now and a lot of off road use. But I am with everyone else, change the fluid first and go from there.
I decided to start swapping my PS fluid every April. Did it this past April as part of "April Maintenance" for the first time. Not flush the system. Just suck everything out of the reservoir, about 12 ounces, and replace. For the price of 12 ounces of power steering fluid it seemed stupid to not do it.
CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 60
From: Florida
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
hmm i think every steering box is different honestly. my original one i can do quick snap turns and it kept up with a 99 but i got a pump from a junkyard jeep that was a 2001 and while it does work fine like mine its slow to catch up with a sudden fast turn all in all it works lol. also low mileage salvage jeeps are awesome this one had 59k miles so my idiotic self had a bottle of orilleys power steering fluid that was there for a pinch as the original blew and leaked badly i stuck that in and went home then drained out that stuff and put in a better grade power steering fluid.... no change tho
Well I did the PS fluid change 2 day. I sucked it from the res and filled it 3x in which all together it added up to 1 quart. Took short drives in between and tried to go lock to lock when turning to mix it up. No change in steering effort. At least it is nice and red now!
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,139
Likes: 93
From: Syracuse, NY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Sorry that didn't produce any benefits for you. I did mine last night as well, and it helped. Like I mentioned earlier, I probably have some underlying issue that is being helped by the fluid change, where as your underlying issue is probably different.
When I was troubleshooting the stiff steering originally, one of the first tests was to disconnect the steering (drag link) from the passenger steering knuckle and with the front of the vehicle lifted, attempting turning the tires by hand. If this is very difficult it points to ball joints that are not moving freely. If they move relatively easily, then you can move upstream. (This can be considered testing from the bottom up).
Testing from the top down usually starts with a power steering pump pressure test. But there is one item above that (upstream) that can sometimes come into play on old XJs and that is the steering intermediate shaft. This is the shaft that runs from the steering column (steering wheel) then down to the steering gear. It has 2 small non-serviceable u-joints on it. Sometimes these can be seized, dry, worn-out, etc. At first I suspected this component on mine, and even purchased a replacement proactively. But ultimately my problem turned out to be further down (most likely the pump).
I mention the steering intermediate shaft, because it is also something cheap and easy to take a look at (and try to lube the u-joints as best possible) to see if it makes any difference at all.
After the ball joints and intermediate shaft, it will almost certainly come back to the pump or steering gear. So the next test would be the pump pressure test.


