Hey guys New to the site just wanted to say how awesome and great this forum is for advid jeepers like my self.

Lets start this topic, Okay so i took my 1989 jeep cherokee xj to a shop in arizona called net work automotive to get an allignment because there is alot of free play in my steering wheel. The Vehicle sits on a 4.5 Lift kit by Pro Comp it has upgraded coils and express arm kit by rubicon. The vehicle's tire size is 33 x 12.5 x 15.

Long story short they declined my vehicles allignment because they said i need a new steering box and upper ball joints.

Here's my question I've already bought the ball joints im going to take care of that but my real question is. With this size of a lift kit and tires would getting a stock Duralast gear box from autozone Be a huge waste of i belive it was listed at 139.00$

2nd question If i had play in the lower steering linkage, basically the output shaft that goes to the frame from the steering box Does that Also need to be replaced? or Would just a gear box fix that play in the output steering shaft??


Overview- Is stock duralast gear box from autozone capable of working with a 4.5lift/ 33 x 12.5 x 15 tires

Will replacing the gear box fix the play in the lower steering output shaft?

lastly, Any ideas for a advid money saver so he can get back on the trail without having to spend say 400$ for a agr2 steering pump

 

Alrighty man, lets get started
Go ahead and take care of those ball joints. As far as the steering box you need to be cautions. I speak from personal experience here. I currently run a PSC Motorsports 14:1 ratio road series box. It was very expensive but worth it. Before that i had a good ol Chinese remanufactured piece of trash steering box from a local parts store. It was horrible. Very sloppy. (Thats with brand new EVERYTHING on the front end) its a crap shoot with those reman boxes man. Overall not recommended. You need to grab a buddy and have him turn that steering wheel back and forth while your looking for any suspect components on the front end. If you need a new tie rod you can always grab a zj v8 rod. At 4.5" of lift you should have an adj. Track bar. You always want to make sure your steering box bolts are tight and that the frame isn't cracked.

 

I second that.
I've opened up 'remanufactured' steering boxes that were worse than the core I sent in. Particularly some of the older Saginaw units, the internals are getting tough to find thus they go back out with nice new paint and mismatched, worn out gear sets.

 

Copy, sounds like a Plan. I really didnt want to go really expensive with the steering box, so your suggesting leaving the steering box as a last option after the the ball joints, track bar, have been replaced? Since my lift kit is fairly new I will double check to also make sure I have a upgraded pitman arm. Im also gonna consider putting a brace up against the lower shaft. you probly know what im talking about the brace bar or something.

 

Any movement at the input shaft (steering box) should transmit to the output shaft/pitman arm. If you have input movement without anything at the output, the box is worn. (On the other hand if there's no slop there the box isn't at fault- move on)

Here's how to adjust the steering box if you find it's loose and want to give it a try:
Loosen the nut while holding the center screw in place, give it 1/8 turn clockwise, tighten the lock nut while holding the center screw.
Go for a drive and see if there is any improvement. Repeat in small increments until slop is gone.
If at any point you feel binding while turning the wheel through the center position or the steering fails to return to center after making a turn, back the screw off counterclockwise again- it's too tight.
(Note this is not the preferred method of adjustment but will get you close if you are careful. The correct method is to put the box in a vise and adjust until you get the correct resistance in inch-pounds while turning the box through center)

That adjustment can compensate for sector shaft wear, but that isn't the only place the box can develop slop.
Another place is the input shaft. Have someone turn the wheel while you watch the input shaft where it enters the box. If there is ANY in and out movement, the input bearing preload needs to be adjusted. That's hidden behind a large spanner nut that encircles the steering input shaft.

If neither adjustment there helps, you need a different box. You have a couple options, including trying the rebuilds (you may have to go through a few to get a good one), or pulling a tight box from a salvage yard and possibly replacing seals, etc as necessary.