All of the relays on the early XJs are standard DIN relays - should be available anywhere. Ask for a "Bosch/Hella" relay if the guy looks confused - Bosch came up with the thing, and Hella uses them in their lighting kits.

A few things to check:

1) Check the actual resistance of your ballast, it should be stamped on one of the terminal tabs. It's not going to be very high - somewhere between 0.5 ohm and 2.0 ohms, IIRC.

(What's it for? The Ballast was added mid-1988 in response to Noise, Vibration, Harshness - NVH - complaints, and was a "voluntary recall" for vehicles that don't have one. My 1987 and 1988 didn't come with them, my two 1989's and my 1990 had them. My 1989 Limited had it fail, and I "replaced" the resistor with a section of 14AWG wire and called it good. My wife's truck - and she didn't mind the noise at all. The noise level isn't great.

(Typically, what happens is that the ballast gets bypassed for the actual start to get full fuel delivery, then the fuel pump power circuit switches over to the ballast to reduce noise and vibration. Chrysler ignitions used to work the same way - full spark power for crank, reduced spark power to run, which was meant to improve component longevity.

(If it's shot, just crimp a couple of insulated male 1/4" spade connectors on either end of a short bit of 14AWG and put them in place of the resistor. Make sure you use the "plastic shrouded" connectors - or wrap the connexion with good tape. I prefer to use the shrouded connectors - tape adhesive can work into the connexion and screw things up.)

2) You mention that checking the Schrader valve at the fuel rail showed no pressure. How long after shutdown was this? There is supposed to be a check valve in the fuel pump to allow the rail to hold pressure for at least several hours, and it's common for this check valve to leak over time. Two fixes:
A) Turn the key to the RUN position and let it sit there for 5 seconds or so to pressurise the rail before you crank. This is also an effective test - if this reduces crank time, you've found it.
B) There's an inexpensive BMW fuel check valve that may be put inline right after the fuel supply line exits the fuel tank. I don't recall the part number, but try searching for it at NAXJA.

3) RENIX is designed with a "long crank time" - it won't fire the fuel injection and ignition until it a) sees 300rpm at the CKP and b) gets a valid SYNC signal from the CMP inside the distributor.

RENIX can "guess" to start without the CMP signal (I've tested this,) but if the CKP signal is "dirty" it will cause you trouble.

What causes a "dirty" signal? A shonky ground. See that little braided strap between the cylinder head and the firewall? It's a good twenty years old now - and it's collected plenty of crud in those two decades. This will degrade the electrical connection between the engine and the chassis.

Why is this important? The primary ground for the chassis is that strap. The ECU is grounded to the chassis, the engine management sensors are all grounded to the engine block. A degraded, contaminated, or "floating" ground will cause you no end of trouble - it's not for nothing that this strap is called "The RENIX Killer." If you replace it, make sure you use a minimum 8AWG wire. Also, clean the contact patch on the firewall down to bare metal and apply corrosion inhibitor.

It also won't go amiss to add a second chassis ground from the battery - post to the chassis near the battery - give it the same treatment, and use a minimum 8AWG wire for this one as well.

Report back after you've checked these and let us know what you've found.

 

I tested the battery voltage at pin 30 and it matches the voltage coming off the battery and at the starter relay post where the components screw on.

I switched out the fuel pump relay but cant hear if the fuel pump is doing anything because of the darn buzzing sound it makes in the cab when she turns the ignition on. For some reason it wasnt doing that last night!

I rechecked the coil to cap wire for fire and still nothing.

Do you thing the starter relay could be bad?

Like I said earlier I believe the coil and module are good. They arent new but I bought new ones and tried them when it wasnt starting a little while back and they werent the issue so I returned them. Really dont have the money to buy something thats not the problem!

 

Just read your reply after I put up that last post so thank you and I'll try those things!

 

Hey 5-90! Thanks for all that info! Thats alot of knowledge and I hope I can be there someday!

A few questions....

(1)I was gonna ask what a CKP was but googled it and found crankshaft position sensor which I was calling CPS, just wanted to double check thats what you were talking about

(2)I dont know how to add a second chassis ground from the battery - post to the chassis near the battery-would I use a clamp type connector on the negative battery cable where it connects to the battery post and run the wire to the chasis? (obviously I'm not too good with the electrical side of things but trying to learn and figure things out!)

(3)You mentioned the BMW fuel check valve that may be put inline right after the fuel supply line exits the fuel tank, will this tell me if the fuel pump is working up to snuff or at all? Defiance665 was thinking I might not be getting signal to the pump at all and I'm not sure how to tell if its that or the pump being out

(4)Lastly, it seems like my problems started after I switched out the battery cables. Of course I ran the black(negative right?) to the engine block just like the old one and my block is nasty! A ton of oil and crud build up and I'm wondering if I caused some problems because I didnt clean up the area before installing the cable. I'll definitely get that block to chasis ground switched too

Hopefully I'm the right track here!

Thanks a million to both you and Defiance665, you guys are great!

 

I would clean up that engine ground... Use brake cleaner or engine degreaser, make sure its really clean. Scuff up the area and throw some "Dielectric Grease" on the connection.

Ill post a pic of my Chassis ground tomorrow, im getting ready to go to sleep.

Have her turn the key on, carefully push in the shrader valve on the fuel rail. If there is no flow, it is a fuel pump or electrical problem.

 

Boy am I thankful for you guys talking about grounds! I have my fuel pressure back and I'm waiting for someone to help me test for fire to the plugs.

She's still not starting but at least i'm getting somewhere!

So when I was cleaning the ground contact on the block I had to wipe some of the wires off around it and found 2 or 3 eyelet style wire connectors not connected to anything!
Must've came off the ground bolt when I was switching out that battery cable and I never even saw them!
I'd feel stupid but how was I to even know! I never knew there were so many ground wires!

Thanks a ton guys-if you hadnt mentioned grounds and cleaning them so well I wouldnt have been working in that area long enough to find those loose wires.

I'll let you know later if I have any fire and I still have to switch out that other ground cable.

Hopefully I'll be back on the road soon!

 

At least youre getting closer..

 

"There's nothing special about being old, it just takes a long time."
"Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want."
"Experience is something you never get until just after you need it."

All are true.

CKP = Crankshaft Position Sensor
CMP = Camshaft Position Sensor.

Standard OBD-II terminology

Easy enough - just add a reasonably-sized wire running directly from the negative post on the battery to the chassis sheetmetal near the battery (fender liner.) The battery end may be attached with any means convenient, use a sheetmetal screw and washer to attach the chassis end. Clean the contact patch between the lug and the sheetmetal as previously noted (grounding through a coat of paint don't work so well.)

If the engine runs at all, then that's a good indicator that your fuel pump is working as well. It could be a power issue (ballast resistor or relay most likely culprits here,) which is what I'd check first. The check valve is to help with loss of fuel pressure in the system when the engine is not running, which contributes to long crank times.

Possible - anytime you service any sort of electrical connection point, you clean it. I never get below a full can and a partial can of electric motor cleaner in the garage - the stuff is just too useful (I also tear all of the fans in the house down about this time of year and clean them - my wife is asthmatic and has a mild allergy to dust mites.)

Black = BLK = Negative/Ground/Earth
Red = RED = Positive/Supply

 

"There's nothing special about being old, it just takes a long time."
"Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want."
"Experience is something you never get until just after you need it."

Great quotes, definitely agree.

Thanks for all the advice I'm still in the process of getting everything done you've told me.

I dont have an ohm meter although I can borrow one from my uncle but my guess is the ballast resistor is fine since its brand new. I'm thinking my next step after the grounding work is to grab an ignition relay as my fuel seems to be working fine but still no spark at the coil.

I have voltage up to the ignition relay and also at the fuel pump relay but nothing coming from the coil when we try to start her.

Any idea what that means?

Is the power getting through the ignition relay?

I thought both the coil and module were good but I suppose one could have just gone out......

Thanks again guys, hate to be a pain, really appreciate all you do and I'm sure everybody else does too!

Sure beats taking it to the mechanic!

 

Theres a power wire to the ICM/Coil. I gotta look, but when I find out what color it is I will tell you.

 

Great thanks!
I think I'll check to see if the wires going into the module have voltage

 

Looks like you want to check pin "A" in the first ICM connection for battery voltage with the key on. The ICM is also grounded to that engine block ground you cleaned.

 

"Brand New" != "Good"

"Noviry v proviry" (Russian) - "We trust but we also verify." Anytime I buy a new electrical part that is as complex as a relay (or less,) I'll test it before it goes in. Hell - half the time I'll take it out of the box and check it right there on the parts counter!

It's a good habit - it's saved me trips before...

 

thanks for the info Defiance665-i'll check it out. Can I fing those diagrams you've been posting online somewhere? They've really helped and of course they're not in the haynes manual.....along with a lot of other stuff!

definitely good advice 5-90, checking right at the counter is a great idea-hate to think you have something that works when you dont. Then you move on to other things when the part you just put on is the culprit.

Im planning on checking and installing everything today, I'll report the results hopefully by tonight.

 

I checked the voltage at the module and coil with the ignition ON and both have power but when I crank it, I'm still getting no spark.
Haven't finished the grounding work yet though so hopefully that'll make it fire.

I'll update later when I'm done