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starts but wont run for long! please help if you can!

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Old May 6, 2010 | 01:24 AM
  #1  
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From: Shawnee, KS
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
Unhappy starts but wont run for long! please help if you can!

I have a 1990 jeep cherokee with the 4.0 inline 6. It dies right after I start it, just
started doing that after I replaced the battery cables. I just replaced the cps because I
read on Eric Giordano's (JabaThaHut) website about sensors that this is a major problem
with hardstart/no start/dying issues and I'd been having no start issues intermittently
over the past year but it would always eventually start. This last time it didnt start for 2
weeks and he suggested unplug/replug and wallah! it started but a few days later i was
having battery issues, checked the cables and replaced like I mentioned above and next
day it died when I drove down the street, over the next hour I tried to get back home
and had to keep my foot on the gas while stopping to limp it home(barely) still died a
few times in under a mile. got it home switched out that darn cps and it now wont run
for more than a few seconds. the haynes book says to check out the intake manifold so
I'm taking that apart now but obviously getting a little frustrated: ).....it has a new
battery, starter, plugs, wires, cap, the module and coil are good. Eric also suggested
switching out the EGR Solenoid(O'reilly's calls it a Resistor) and its cheap so I did that.
sorry for being so long winded just wanted to make sure to give as much info as
possible! (I'd really rather not switch out the fuel pump if I can help it! thats the last
thing on my list so far but I just dont think thats the prob....Thanks a ton for listening!
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Old May 6, 2010 | 01:27 AM
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Same as I posted in the other thread...

I would bypass the ballast resistor, and switch the power latch relay with a known good one.
Ballast resistor is on the drivers side fender under the hood, two wires with female spade plugs plug into it. Bypass it with a chunk of wire with male spade terminals on it.
Switch the power latch relay, located on the passengers side in the relay block with a known good one. See if that gets you anywhere.

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Old May 6, 2010 | 02:40 AM
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From: Shawnee, KS
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
Default Thanks!

Thanks very much for the reply! I know that sounded kinda crazy but its tough to explain after everything i've done lately! so i have already switched out all the relays with good ones which I didnt mention earlier and I could bypass that resistor but I just replaced it with a new one...I know i'm inexperienced and apologize upfront but why should I do that? Once again thank you very much for the help, I reeeeeeally appreciate it!
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Old May 6, 2010 | 02:49 AM
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From: Shawnee, KS
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can you direct me to the other thread? Definitely dont wont you to have to give the same info twice....or more. dont want to be a pain in the rear either just not sure what to do next, never want to do more than is necessary! for you or me! Also in regards to your reply from earlier, im not sure what you mean to splice. Do you mean completely bypass that component and connect the wires or am I way off?
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Old May 6, 2010 | 03:03 AM
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From: Shawnee, KS
Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0 inline 6
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ok after reading your post and thinking on it a little I think I get what your saying.....splice a wire in and put some connectors on it to plug into those female connectors. So what was that ballast resistor meant to do anyway? Thank you very much again for your help!
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Old May 6, 2010 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jat2036
Thanks very much for the reply! I know that sounded kinda crazy but its tough to explain after everything i've done lately! so i have already switched out all the relays with good ones which I didnt mention earlier and I could bypass that resistor but I just replaced it with a new one...I know i'm inexperienced and apologize upfront but why should I do that? Once again thank you very much for the help, I reeeeeeally appreciate it!
If you have changed all the relays and the ballast resistor, then disregard my first post... lol
Its possible you got a bad resistor from the store, but I doubt it. So dont worry about that..

Originally Posted by jat2036
can you direct me to the other thread? Definitely dont wont you to have to give the same info twice....or more. dont want to be a pain in the rear either just not sure what to do next, never want to do more than is necessary! for you or me! Also in regards to your reply from earlier, im not sure what you mean to splice. Do you mean completely bypass that component and connect the wires or am I way off?
I meant the "ask a question thread" where you posted first.

So, youre saying itll start, run for ~2 seconds and then shut off? I wounder what your fuel pressure does during this, it could be fuel or spark cutting off after that 2 seconds. I would check both.
Put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and have someone start it, watch for a drop in pressure before/during the engine dying.

Pull a plug wire and watch the spark with the engine running, See if it cuts out as the engine dies.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 01:02 PM
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Yep that's exactly what it's doing(the two second thing)it revs high upon start and then dies out, thanks again for the reply! I will try those two things and let you know what I come up with.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 01:07 PM
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From: Shawnee, KS
Year: 1990
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One more thing! When I was taking everything apart to get to the intake manifold last night, I went to relieve the fuel pressure via that port and I was really suprised to find their was none. I pushed it a few times thinking I just wasnt hitting it right but nothing, no spray. Of course the last time I did it when I was switching out the fuel filter it sprayed immediately. Does that tell us something?
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Old May 6, 2010 | 01:17 PM
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sounds like youre losing power to the fuel pump after the crank cycle. Im getting ready to leave, but Ill look some stuff up later.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 09:49 PM
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From: Shawnee, KS
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
Unhappy No good

ok so I did a couple of tests and here's what I got but 1st the engine is now cranking but not starting which isnt suprising with no fuel pressure. I had my lady turn the ignition to "ON" while I listened for the fuel pump to start.....nothing. Then I had her try to start it while I held the wire up to the spark plug....nothing again. Last I held the wire which runs from the coil to cap up to the coil and had her crank it again......suprise suprise nothing! Maybe it is a relay? I really dont know what to think with both the fuel AND fire not working. A while back I bought a relay and tried it in all the relay spots I could find and she didnt start so I figured it wasnt a relay and moved on.....maybe I was wrong? What do you think? Once again I really appreciate all your help! Thanks!
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Old May 6, 2010 | 09:53 PM
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only things I can think of would be power latch and fuel pump relays. Ill start looking through my FSM and fuel injection manual.

I see 5-90 is on, maybe hell be able to help.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 10:07 PM
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Looks like the fuel pump relay runs the ignition too, with the key on, see if you have battery voltage at pin 30 of the relay connection in the relay box on the passengers side.
You could also put your ear up by the relay and have her turn the key on, see if you can hear it click.

Last edited by 89Laredo; Oct 19, 2012 at 02:07 AM.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 10:48 PM
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Ok your awesome I'll check it out cant thank ya enough but I'll keep tryin
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Old May 7, 2010 | 03:07 PM
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I have a question for you about relays, if it has the right number of blades is it ok to use? They have a wide variety of relays and the prices range quite a bit too. Some say universal and others say specific uses but look exactly the same. Thanks again
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Old May 7, 2010 | 03:09 PM
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They should be fine, as long as they are rated teh same.
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