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starting issue fuel related?

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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Fsher21
I have done very little work since it was passed down to me two years ago. I joined this forum recently to get a better understanding of my xj and have a huge list of crap to do for when it warms up outside.

what would cleaning that do?
Its worth a shot, they get pretty nasty... Ill send you a writeup.
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by thundaluvin
If you have a place to work on it I would be more than happy to help anytime I can. I live about an hour from you and I won't charge you a dime.
there you go thats what were all on here for to help i would def start with this it cant hurt cost about 5 buck for carb cleaner
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 05:18 PM
  #18  
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Thanks guys, I will try a few things out hopefully this weekend and let you know how it goes.
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 05:20 PM
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you no where the iac is
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 05:25 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
you no where the iac is
Not until defiance sent me the writeup looks easy enough, I will find a way to make it difficult though. My complete list of jobs under my belt is tiny. Only thing ive done on the engine was the oil pressure sending unit...difficult job right there ohh and my heater control valve after it blew to pieces.
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 06:09 PM
  #21  
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A bit of an update. Found out the cps has been replaced within the last few years. Also, thought maybe my air filter was clogged, so i took that out for a short start and it still at very low rpm threatening to stall. Not only is it doing on the second start within less than an hour, now it is starting all the time like that.

After the first 5 seconds of running, everything after that is still flawless.

One last thing, during the summer/fall I had issues where my rpm would drop to zero for about 1 second while driving and mainly accelerating, but didn't stall. It wasnt the gauge because I could hear it happen. Happened only a few times a week. It has only ever stalled on me twice in the past 2 years. Not sure that is relevant, but I have not had that happen in about 4 months.

So is the IAC still my best bet for the time being?
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 06:12 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Fsher21
A bit of an update. Found out the cps has been replaced within the last few years. Also, thought maybe my air filter was clogged, so i took that out for a short start and it still at very low rpm threatening to stall. Not only is it doing on the second start within less than an hour, now it is starting all the time like that.

After the first 5 seconds of running, everything after that is still flawless.

One last thing, during the summer/fall I had issues where my rpm would drop to zero for about 1 second while driving and mainly accelerating, but didn't stall. It wasnt the gauge because I could hear it happen. Happened only a few times a week. It has only ever stalled on me twice in the past 2 years. Not sure that is relevant, but I have not had that happen in about 4 months.

So is the IAC still my best bet for the time being?

I still suspect the CPS, but it could also be the cam sensor in the distributor.
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 08:52 PM
  #23  
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^ x2 but clean the IAC anyway, its cheap and easy to do and will help your idle at least.

Last edited by 89Laredo; Jan 25, 2011 at 09:18 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Fsher21
A bit of an update. Found out the cps has been replaced within the last few years. Also, thought maybe my air filter was clogged, so i took that out for a short start and it still at very low rpm threatening to stall. Not only is it doing on the second start within less than an hour, now it is starting all the time like that.

After the first 5 seconds of running, everything after that is still flawless.

One last thing, during the summer/fall I had issues where my rpm would drop to zero for about 1 second while driving and mainly accelerating, but didn't stall. It wasnt the gauge because I could hear it happen. Happened only a few times a week. It has only ever stalled on me twice in the past 2 years. Not sure that is relevant, but I have not had that happen in about 4 months.

So is the IAC still my best bet for the time being?
thid would be a good place to start
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 09:22 PM
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Sorry to keep coming back before I look at most suggestions...but I think I forgot to leave out I went from getting about 180 miles a tank, to about 150-160, and is still going down i think. I assumed it was my bad tstat, but could also be a symptom of this issue here? i do have a 13.5 gallon tank. Been having this issue the last 3 or so months, same amount of time my engine started running a bit cool.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 12:47 PM
  #26  
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Hopefully the last time I reply before I really get into fixing it, but not running perfect if it starts fine now. really tries to stall if I am off the gas for very long, and I noticed a little bit of bucking at around 65 and 55 when I was getting off the expressway. done driving it until I take it to my dads to work on it.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 01:04 PM
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if you need help when you get it there call me
989 687 6631

Im free on sundays and thursdays till 5

Last edited by 89Laredo; Jan 27, 2011 at 02:15 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 05:31 PM
  #28  
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Ok guys, back...again. I removed and cleaned my IAC (wow was it caked) and put it back in, started it, and there was no difference

So, where do I go next? TPS? CPS? I can't imagine why the cps would be bad, it is no more than 5 years old.

thanks
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 05:39 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Fsher21
Ok guys, back...again. I removed and cleaned my IAC (wow was it caked) and put it back in, started it, and there was no difference

So, where do I go next? TPS? CPS? I can't imagine why the cps would be bad, it is no more than 5 years old.

thanks
test the CPS. I have had them be bad right out of the box. check all of the connections and then go to the cam sensor in the distributor. test that too.
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 09:57 PM
  #30  
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So I went out and bought a new IAC because my old one was so gunked up, and it looks a lot different than the one in it now.

Should there be a big difference in the replacement IAC or is one of them the wrong one? The old one is long with a smaller end, the new one is short with a bit bigger end. they checked twice at autozone and verified it is the right one they sold me. Why are they so different?
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