Stalled out with zero oil pressure
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 12
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
An interesting read http://blog.oregonlive.com/complaint...enrys_you.html
Engine damage, if it exists, will vary from case to case. Neither we nor the OP can diagnose this from a keyboard. Time to get the tools out.
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: Sucka Free East Bay Cali
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
An interesting read http://blog.oregonlive.com/complaint...enrys_you.html
When they first started "cash-for-clunkers" some junkyards thought they could save a dollar and would poke a hole in the oil pan and wire the throttle wide open. What they found out was some engines ran for hours before seizing! The procedure that did work was to drain the oil, install the drain plug and fill the crankcase with sodium silicate which effectively destroyed the oil film.
Seriously, running without oil is not good but it is nice to know there is a very good chance that little/no damage was incurred.
I have seen agricultural irrigation pumps with Chrysler slant six engines run unattended many hours. More than once were some of them found without oil on the dipstick when checked for re-fueling.
So to the OP...get your oil loss diagnosed and corrected first then go from there. The 4.0 is a tank of an engine. My 2000 4.0 has been running on 4psi for well over 3 years.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: NW Iowa
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
My jeep (2004) has a dummy gauge so it reads 0 at idle. Mechanics test gauge reads 4 psi @ 650 and 20 psi @ 2500. Jeep runs like a scalded dog and is very quiet. I suspect a cam bearing. I have a standby engine ready to install when (and if) that one ever starts to make a fuss.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Ok....so I'm thinking that it's safe to say all I gotta do is replace that part and crank her up....i don't have to re prime the oil pump or anything like that yea?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Hers what I'm thinking...
1. Put oil back into engine.
2. Prime pump and assure the sump is still operating correctly
3. Set to top dead center and correctly install new distributor
4. Run up jeep and check for knocking and correct oil pressure
Am I missing anything?
1. Put oil back into engine.
2. Prime pump and assure the sump is still operating correctly
3. Set to top dead center and correctly install new distributor
4. Run up jeep and check for knocking and correct oil pressure
Am I missing anything?
Hers what I'm thinking...
1. Put oil back into engine.
2. Prime pump and assure the sump is still operating correctly
3. Set to top dead center and correctly install new distributor
4. Run up jeep and check for knocking and correct oil pressure
Am I missing anything?
1. Put oil back into engine.
2. Prime pump and assure the sump is still operating correctly
3. Set to top dead center and correctly install new distributor
4. Run up jeep and check for knocking and correct oil pressure
Am I missing anything?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
No cause I took that off in order to install the pump...the distributor was the last thing I put back together...I was just figuring it's old and I might off put the screw that holds it down on a lil to tight
Sounds like your onto something. Let us know and good luck.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Happy fourth everyone! spent a few hours of my night taking off the oil pan to look under the engine for damage and I found some shimmering glitter sized metal in the left over oil in the pan as well as a milky looking substance floating in there(coolant?). Now I'm not sure bout this but my cylinder walls looked like they had some charing at the bottom of them. Any idea if that's normal or possible damage from operating without oil pump? When I run my finger over the shiny part of the wall its smooth all around except for where it's all brownish. Then it starts feeling like sand paper. Thanks y'all
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
The piston is smaller than the boar and it's the rings that make the seal, (of course). The piston "skirts" are what can make contact besides the rings. (they, of course help keep the piston from tilting on the wrist pin). There is always some shiny stuff in the pan, and the brown is just normal varnish.
I suppose the roughness where the skirt wore on the cylinder without oil IS an issue. That fit, skirt wear and cylinder taper is one of the two last things you don't really want to see in an engine, (clearanced rods being the other).
I'd run it and listen, piston slap you can hear. If it's bad, take it from there. My 02 anyway.
I suppose the roughness where the skirt wore on the cylinder without oil IS an issue. That fit, skirt wear and cylinder taper is one of the two last things you don't really want to see in an engine, (clearanced rods being the other).
I'd run it and listen, piston slap you can hear. If it's bad, take it from there. My 02 anyway.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tristanp
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
2
Sep 15, 2015 04:06 PM
Blackxj51
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
22
Sep 13, 2015 06:06 PM
15XJ
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
7
Sep 10, 2015 11:17 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)




