DoJo

Hey Guy's,

1999 jeep Cherokee...

Pulled into the parking lot at work and it stalled.
Now the gauges don't work and it won't start.
Isn't there a fuse in the passenger kick panel that could have blown and cause this condition?
Can someone tell me which one that is?
My code reader is at home!!!

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Emptydata

xj_maniac_newb

Sounds like a corroded battery terminal... unless it turns over.

This may or may not help, but heres a link to what seems to be your issue.

http://jsautosource.com/my-projects/...art-no-gauges/

Mudderoy

If a fuse or relay related issue it would have to be in the block under the hood on the passenger side (on the 97+ anyway). You may be able to swap relays or fuses to get it going again.

The battery and/or alternator is a good place to check too.

cookrw

Any power at all, interior lights, etc? To me, it sounds like a bad connection to the battery.

DoJo

Thanks for the reply,

Got power - motor turns over, lights work, radio works.
Gauges don't work - it just died when I came to a stop in the parking lot. Thank god..
Check engine light is on but my code reader is at home.
Changed the crankshaft position sensor a while back with an OEM one.
Anyway to easily check if that's the problem?

Thanks again!!

Emptydata

CCKen

It could be a faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS). They have been know to cause these problems.

Disconnect the CPS and turn key to RUN and see if the gauges come back. If so, the CPS is probably at fault.

DoJo

Update...

I disconnected the cps and turn the key to on - gauges still not working.

I'll check for codes tomorrow - any suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks,

DoJo

CCKen

Could be the ASD Relay but It has nothing to do with the instrument cluster. You could swap the Radiator Fan Relay with the ASD relay and see if the engine starts and runs. See fuses below for various possible power source problems.

Fuse F12, 40 Amp maxi fuse, powers fuse F16 15 Amp mini fuse (IOD), which powers the instrument cluster, and fuse F19, 25 Amp mini fuse, which powers the ASD. Check F12, 4th one down in the inboard bank of maxi fuses, and see if it's blown. F19 is next to F16. F16 is shown under the PDC cover as IOD.

If the 40 Amp fuse if blown there's bad juju afoot.

DoJo

04/19 update.

The problem was fuse 19 was blown (starter motor relay)
2 codes thrown - Camshaft, & Crankshaft position sensor.
Would that cause the fuse to blow?
Any information will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

DoJo

CCKen

Was it fuse F19 in the PDC or in the junction block?

F19 in the PDC (engine bay) is for the ASD relay and F19 in the junction block (passenger footwell) is for the starter motor relay.

I can see fuse F19 in the PDC causing the engine to shut down but F19 in the JB???

Do you remember/know what POXXX codes you had/have? Would need the exact codes to troubleshoot it further.

Cheers

DoJo

Thanks for your comments...

Believe it or not it was fuse 19 in the junction block located in the passenger side foot-well.
I put a new fuse in everything worked as it should, drove it about 1/4 mile it blew again.

The 2 codes were crankshaft position senor 1391 and the second was the cam shaft position sensor, don't have the jeep here to confirm the code numbers.
This is quite the mystery and driving me nuts.
I was going to replace both sensors this weekend and see what happens.
Any ideas how to diagnose the problem would be appreciated!!

Thanks,
DoJo

CCKen

You haven't completed your profile Jeep info so no one knows what engine/transmission you have. Do you have a 4.0 L motor? Manual or automatic transmission?

Question: Why did you replace the crankshaft position sensor "awhile back"?

You have a real cluster F*** going there mate. Here's what the diagnostics manual says are the possible causes for P1391:

P1391-INTERMITTENT LOSS OF CMP OR CKP

CKP=Crankshaft Position Sensor, aka CPS CMP=Camshaft Position Sensor

CMP SENSOR OUT OF SYNC
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/FLEX PLATE (CRANKSHAFT)
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING (CAMSHAFT)
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CMP SIGNAL
INTERMITTENT CKP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CKP SIGNAL
WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT
INTERMITTENT CMP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
CKP SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

Most of the diagnostics have you checking CMP and CKP for corroded or bent pins, bad wiring, etc., and using a DRB III (dealer) tester and a lab scope.

Need the other code if any sense could be made of this.

If the other code is P1398 this is the breakdown:

P1398-MIS-FIRE ADAPTIVE NUMERATOR AT LIMIT

DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/FLEX PLATE (CRANKSHAFT)
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CKP SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
IMPROPERLY INSTALLED/LOOSE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

TEST ACTION APPLICABILITY

It's baffling why F19 in the JB (starter relay) would cause this unless it's the product of another problem. Maybe your ignition switch is bad or somehow the PCM or CCD Bus is being corrupted (CCD Bus - no instruments).

I guess you could inspect all the CKP and CMP wiring and connector first. With the engine running wiggle the CKP and CMP wiring and see if the fuse blows?

mike redman

I had the exact same problem but found out that it was because the distributor was faulty and grounded itself out with Jewish shorting everything else as soon as I replace that I got all power back and fired right up

to check and see if it's the same on yours just turn your key on go and unplug your distributor and if you're gay just turned on your distributor is bad

BlueRidgeMark

Welcome to the forum, Mike.

But... uh... this is a 6 year old thread....

Take a look above the username on each post, and you'll see a date and time when the post was made. (See picture below.)

It's easy to stumble across ancient threads when you are using a search engine, so it's a good idea to take a look at the date before responding.

Jbird76

I have the identical problem. If I let it sit and cool down, the gauges will work again and keep will start. Tho now that it is summer. Cool down time is way to long on the side of the road. Did you find a fix. What was the solution.... Please.