Should I buy just any map sensor off RockAuto or is there a better of the bunch?

 

mopar map sensor is the one I would go with but that is just me...
also after all this time Have you checked for codes?
yours is a 1992 so it is a OBD1 system that does store codes... but does not put a check engine light on..

 

here is how to check it...
ntro and Notes
So, before outlining the proceedure (a.k.a. "key trick") to get the codes, a few things to note:
1) You may have to set the parking brake for the codes to show
2) On older models, the blink-spacing is not always perfectly uniform, so if you see 23 23, it's probably just a single 55 since codes are not repeated (55 is end of codes - it's normal)
3) On newer models with a digital odometer, the codes are usually displayed on the odometer rather than blinking the check engine light.
4) When the computer indicates major failure, it can activate "Limp In" mode, which guesses about data to compensate for sensor failure, allowing you to get the car to a mechanic. One major symptom of this is losing third and/or fourth gear on autos.

The "Key Tricks"
Older (OBDI) models - Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. ("On" is NOT "Start" and "Off" is NOT "Lock"). The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!


Older Model Computer Codes (OBDI) - IMPORTANT! Codes may be different for newer vehicles starting circa 1996.
11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
13 MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14 MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16 Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
OR
17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
22 Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing
23 Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24 Throttle position sensor over 4.96V
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors)
27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
- check computer, connections
31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
OR
32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
OR
32 (1990-92) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit or normal on early 80's models if you don't have air conditioning)
34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
OR
34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
OR
35 idle switch motor fault - check connections
36 (turbo only) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
OR
part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
OR
solenoid coil circuit (85-87 Turbo only)
OR
Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on)
41 Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
OR
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
OR
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the ignition coil)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
OR
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46 Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (this may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition. If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor.
OR
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only).
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing
55 End of codes
61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure
66 No CCD Message From TCM and/or No CCD Message From BCM

hope this helps its almost a complete list... of the codes i believe

 

Thanks! I'll give it a try! So maybe I'll find out after I try this, but does my problem seem to be related to the map sensor? Or could it be my alternator? I'm hoping it's the map! Cheaper than a new alt haha. It happened on the way to route this morning in the cold weather, then sat outside for 8 hours, then on the way home I don't believe it acted up.. Could this possibly be bad fuel or a dying fuel pump? My Airtex pump whines on a daily basis.. Possibility?

 

i wouldnt buy a new map sensor unless the check engine light is on. try taking out the check valve in the line first or replace the line completely with a rubber hose that fits tight on both ends. those stock plastic ones crack over time.

 

Hmm.. This is only happening when it's really cold, and it did happen when it was really hot out.. You think the weather affects the hose, causing this issue? I'll look into a hose replacement. At least it'll be one thing to cross off the list.

 

The map was bad on my friends 95 xj and it did not throw a check engine light in the OBD1 system... but the code came up with the key trick......
runs better then ever now...

 

oops yeah yeah your right thanks for the correction. what I meant to say is if it doesnt come up with the key trick I wouldnt get a new one yet.

 

mine was cracked and was affecting it alot on acceleration. It was cold out but idk if it was because it was cold out it got worse or thats just when it happened to crack

 

So am I buying a whole new emission hose then to solve this? I'd like to buy from a local shop rather than RockAuto since it's an annoying issue.

 

I have a 91 limited that was doing the exact same thing. It would cruise down the road great at 60mph but when I needed a little acceleration up a hill or to pass, it would sputter. Maybe not as bad as yours sounds, but same symptoms. Did all kinds of things like seafoam, 703 injectors, coolant flush, etc. Didn't solve it. Then one day my wife said when she got to work it smelled like gas really bad. When I got home, went and checked it out and the fuel pressure regulator was dripping right on the exhaust manifold. Coulda caused a fire pretty easily. Changed the regulator and it runs GREAT. More power, no sputtering. Might be your problem, did you change out the regulator?

 

Where exactly is this located? I dont really have a bad gas smell, although I smell it on occasion, but I have an Airtex fuel pump so.. this isnt happening every time I drive. Its like every other time or so. I feel like its a map sensor vacuum line. Are the cracks visible?

 

Did you ever run the codes?

 

I tried, but I had trouble doing the key thing to initiate the codes.

 

Well how can we help with the key thing? The codes could be they key to your problem...