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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 07:01 PM
  #31  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
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Told ya about the Bosch plugs... Glad to see you got it fixed!!
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 06:21 AM
  #32  
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Year: 1987
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I got my Cherokee started the other day and after warming up she did not run as rough as she had been. I'm going to run the rest of the gas in the tank out and start with a fresh tank of gas. My problem might have been the gas that was in it the year it sat while I decided what to do about the transmission. After the swap I did not fill it up all the way. Hopefully this is the fix. Driving it to the lease today. Might get some rain which equals mud.
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 05:54 AM
  #33  
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Damn. XJ runs great if I do not throttle up too much and it has trouble pushing 70MPH. A slight uphill grade or running into the wind going down the highway and it starts losing power. Some one suggested the fuel pump. That might be next on the list. Could the catalytic converter be the problem as well?
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 05:59 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by rocker65
Damn. XJ runs great if I do not throttle up too much and it has trouble pushing 70MPH. A slight uphill grade or running into the wind going down the highway and it starts losing power. Some one suggested the fuel pump. That might be next on the list. Could the catalytic converter be the problem as well?
Fuel pressure test is in order.

If you're concerned about a clogged exhaust system, like a converter, read this:

CRUISER’S VACUUM TEST FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION

Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the vacuum gauge up to a source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction.
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 11:54 AM
  #35  
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Year: 1986
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Told ya about the Bosch plugs... Glad to see you got it fixed!!
thanks for the advice
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 12:55 PM
  #36  
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From: Pomona,Ca.
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4.bangin.i4
Post R&R Intake manifold/freeze plugs/spark plugs cracked=problem solved

I started by taking the whole intake manifold/exhaust off to locate the problem


Notice anything wrong?


there was also a crack in the manifold gasket causing a leak


getting the side of the block prepped


Installed new manifold gasket and freeze plugs


while I was at it I checked the plugs as recommended. notice the problem? that was causing the sputtering
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 07:33 AM
  #37  
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Cruiser, you mentioned that a new fuel pump would resolve the fuel pressure issue. Can a bad fuel pump still keep a Cherokee on the road? All my past experiences with bad fuel pumps the car did not run at all.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 07:36 AM
  #38  
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This system is different than the old mechanic l pumps. Low or varying fuel pressure can wreak havoc as the injectors are being fired for a length of time by the eCU, which is thinking a certain amount of pressure is gonna be behind them when it cycles them.
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 07:09 PM
  #39  
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new fuel pump and the problem is solved. thanks for all the help cruiser.
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 07:34 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by rocker65
new fuel pump and the problem is solved. thanks for all the help cruiser.
Cool. Glad you got it fixed.
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 03:13 AM
  #41  
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Now on to switch to an open cooling system
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 05:28 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by rocker65
Now on to switch to an open cooling system

New radiator etc before summer. Good idea.
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