Sounds like cylinders are loading up afte iat cleaning
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington,NC
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Didnt see it until I rechecked everything my bad. Does the rubber just pull out or do I need to remove the screw first?
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
I actually used a tiny extractor to remove the broken tube from the rubber. A really small wood screw would work. Mine is "cobbed" in at least 3 or four pieces with both flexible and rigid line. (small vacuum tube fits in the rigid).
You can heat and bend the ridged, but keep the Bic, way away, it will heat up fast/easy.
You can heat and bend the ridged, but keep the Bic, way away, it will heat up fast/easy.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington,NC
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I actually used a tiny extractor to remove the broken tube from the rubber. A really small wood screw would work. Mine is "cobbed" in at least 3 or four pieces with both flexible and rigid line. (small vacuum tube fits in the rigid).
You can heat and bend the ridged, but keep the Bic, way away, it will heat up fast/easy.
You can heat and bend the ridged, but keep the Bic, way away, it will heat up fast/easy.

CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
It's really crucial that is right...doesn't leak. The MAP just needs manifold vac. You could "T" off that (larger) line coming off rear of the TB, (that goes back and around), than just plug the hole in the TB. Or maybe hit the JY and find another plug and more MAP tube...
Just, that really matters. Needs a dependable, tight, seal.
Just, that really matters. Needs a dependable, tight, seal.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I moved my vac fitting for the MAP to the hole in the manifold left by moving the IAT to the air cleaner housing. Tapped the hole in the TB and plugged it.
Go drive it like ya stole it for a bit and see if it clears out.
Go drive it like ya stole it for a bit and see if it clears out.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington,NC
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
How did you get it to seal in the iat hole? I put a lil silicone around it. Doesnt sound to be leaking thankfully. Good to know I can just tap into any vacuum line. Also can I use the rubber tube I used as a patch to replace the whole vac line or will it collapse from the vacuum pressure
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,579
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
How did you get it to seal in the iat hole? I put a lil silicone around it. Doesnt sound to be leaking thankfully. Good to know I can just tap into any vacuum line. Also can I use the rubber tube I used as a patch to replace the whole vac line or will it collapse from the vacuum pressure
You want your MAP line to run downhill to the TB or manifold from the MAP with no low spots.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington,NC
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Was thinking of putting it in the IAC location and moving the IAC to the air box. Jw the vacuum operated flap in my air box does it have a constant vac the would cause my idle to go up when I remove it? I want to do a cone filter in place of the stock filter and trying to figure out how to do it.


