Ok, so the fabric on my sound bar has been hanging forever so i took it off sanded it down and painted it and it looks so much better, but I'm having the typical problem of the sound bar sagging in the middle (i actually cracked it a bit when i was taking it out). you can see in the picture that the posts that come down and go through the dome light are broken off. I put a screw in the backside of the sound bar to keep it from totally falling down.

any tips, hints, examples or pictures of how you guys have remedied this would be really appreciated.

thanks a ton

 

I can't really see the crack in your photos but I think it's maybe right there at the dome light opening?

It's probably sagging because the cracks have caused it to lose it's shape.

I would recommend epoxying either a thin piece of wood or plastic to the inside of your soundbar. Make sure whatever you use to reenforce the area is large enough to extend well on either side of the crack. Clamp and wait for it to cure. Scrape off any epoxy that squeezed through the crack, sand, and repaint that area.

In lieu of a 2-part epoxy, you can use an irrigation line primer/glue (ABS) or a fiberglass resin. If you use the ABS glue, you'll have to use an ABS backing material.

 

Best thing you can do, Is pull that sound bar down and mount your speakers inside the rear hatch. So they are pointing at the occupants of the vehicle and not at the floor.

 

i'm with you 91 limited owner, i'd rather have them in the hatch. i've looked through other threads, but have yet to find a good write up on putting the speakers in the hatch.

can anyone point me in the right direction? i have a 97 XJ sport

also, if i were to install them in the hatch, what do i do with the opening in the headliner that would be left over?

 

Don't mount them in the hatch. They rattle and the rear seats will block sound omitting from them(IMO). Check out my profile/posts I posted mine on here when I finished installing my soundbar. The middle bracket is what supports the sound bar from sagging. Use some nuts and lock tight so they don't rattle lose.

 

hey kissthis66, thats my question, i'd love to just use some 'nuts and some lock tight' but how do i go about doing that? i can't seem to figure that part out.
thanks

 

I layed a couple layers of fiberglas mating across the center and used some sheet metal screws thru the base of the light into the roof brace.

 

What I did was took out the middle bracket. On my 94 there were two screws in the end of it that help mount the mount to the roof. I then took two 2" blots and bolted those threw the mount and put nuts in the opposite site to secure the 2" bolts to the mount. Then mounted it back up with 3M high adhesive double sides tape and the two screws in to the roof/brace. Then i just used two more additional nuts to mount the soundbar to the mount with the 2" bolts.

 

I have no problem with rattling, And that is where a pair of the factory 5.25" where originally located. I pulled out the glastic panel, And opened it up to fit 6x9". With a piece of dynomat behind it, on the inside of the hatch. Not because of a rattling problem. But I wanted to keep outside sound levels to a minimum. Because I am pushing 250 Watts (RMS) to each of the 120 watt 6x9's. And I never noticed a difference in the rear seat being up or down. To me it made more sense, than having them in the far back pointing at the floor. At least they are pointing in the right direction. Now the sub it didn't make a difference. (they are omni-directional) The other car speakers are not. To each their own, I say.