SKIM trouble - cutting to the chase
#1
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Model: Cherokee
SKIM trouble - cutting to the chase
Apparently my SKIM module has gone Tango Uniform. The "key" warning light is on and it shuts off a second after starting.
I've searched and found a variety of comments and advice here. While trying to sort through it and see what sounds like the right approach, I figured that would take a lot of time and I just want to go direct.
I saw a tip on a website that recommended:
a. Order new/reman engine computer
b. Completely remove SKIM module from steering column
c. Install new engine computer
Can one of you tell me if this will work OK? Thanks.
I've searched and found a variety of comments and advice here. While trying to sort through it and see what sounds like the right approach, I figured that would take a lot of time and I just want to go direct.
I saw a tip on a website that recommended:
a. Order new/reman engine computer
b. Completely remove SKIM module from steering column
c. Install new engine computer
Can one of you tell me if this will work OK? Thanks.
#2
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Location: Hanover,Ont, Canada
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
Need a little more info . Year make/model If it is a 99 -04 grand Cherokee I would say there is a good chance it is the pcm. Codes in pcm or skim module? could be a bad key. Eliminating the skim will only work if you can find a compatible pcm from a unit that wasn't equipped with it (and unplug your skim so the pcm doesn't learn).
#3
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Model: Cherokee
2001 XJ, 4.0.
I don't have a way to read codes.
The light with the line through the key symbol is on, all of my instruments are dead, and it shuts off just after starting.
It came on incrementally. I was driving along and everything was normal, then I glanced down and my oil pressure read zero. I immediately pulled over and shut the engine off. Everything looked OK (good oil level, etc.), so I tried restarting it. Yep - everything looked fine.
While driving home I noticed the speedo and tach were dead. Shortly after that the fuel, voltmeter, temp & oil pressure were dead.
I made it home & backed into the driveway. I tried disconnecting & reconnecting the battery to see if it would reset. No joy. Then the engine started shutting off a second or two after starting.
At least it got me home!!!! I just bought it a few days ago. This may turn out to be an "interesting" relationship.
I don't have a way to read codes.
The light with the line through the key symbol is on, all of my instruments are dead, and it shuts off just after starting.
It came on incrementally. I was driving along and everything was normal, then I glanced down and my oil pressure read zero. I immediately pulled over and shut the engine off. Everything looked OK (good oil level, etc.), so I tried restarting it. Yep - everything looked fine.
While driving home I noticed the speedo and tach were dead. Shortly after that the fuel, voltmeter, temp & oil pressure were dead.
I made it home & backed into the driveway. I tried disconnecting & reconnecting the battery to see if it would reset. No joy. Then the engine started shutting off a second or two after starting.
At least it got me home!!!! I just bought it a few days ago. This may turn out to be an "interesting" relationship.
#5
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Update:
It runs!
I ordered a PCM from All Computer Resources.
In case this is useful info to anyone else, my procedure was:
1. Remove and disconnect the SKIM. I read that there were only two screws holding the steering column covers on. I removed them, and after fighting a bit found a third one. That gave me access to the SKIM. Easy to spot: A ring around the ignition switch with a box attached to it. I just pulled it out and disconnected the electrical connector.
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. Remove the old PCM. There are three connectors on it. NOTE: There are release tabs on the tops AND bottoms of the connectors. After disconnecting them, I removed the three screws holding the PCM to the inside of the fender.
4. Install the new PCM. Just reverse the removal. NOTE: The mounting screws on mine go into sheet metal (When researching this I found that some years/models have bolts). When installing them, be careful not to strip out the holes. After the PCM is mounted, connect the connectors.
5. Reconnect the battery.
6. Turn key.
While this is probably simplistic for a lot of you guys, this was my first time replacing a PCM. Gratified at how easy it was.
It runs!
I ordered a PCM from All Computer Resources.
In case this is useful info to anyone else, my procedure was:
1. Remove and disconnect the SKIM. I read that there were only two screws holding the steering column covers on. I removed them, and after fighting a bit found a third one. That gave me access to the SKIM. Easy to spot: A ring around the ignition switch with a box attached to it. I just pulled it out and disconnected the electrical connector.
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. Remove the old PCM. There are three connectors on it. NOTE: There are release tabs on the tops AND bottoms of the connectors. After disconnecting them, I removed the three screws holding the PCM to the inside of the fender.
4. Install the new PCM. Just reverse the removal. NOTE: The mounting screws on mine go into sheet metal (When researching this I found that some years/models have bolts). When installing them, be careful not to strip out the holes. After the PCM is mounted, connect the connectors.
5. Reconnect the battery.
6. Turn key.
While this is probably simplistic for a lot of you guys, this was my first time replacing a PCM. Gratified at how easy it was.
#7
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