Shock Absorber Question and Suggestion
#16
CF Veteran
My Monomax have to have at least 50k on them and are still good. I had KYB Gas-A-Just's on my '78 Power Wagon that I used and abused while working in the woods. They were still good when I got rid of the truck.
The other day I had trouble with a rear brake dragging. Seems the parking brake shoes had tightened up. BUT I'm gun shy right now wondering if it was a caliper issue to. Anyways I haven't used the XJ much. Heading out now to vote for the lesser of all the evils. If there's no brake issue I'll hit those washboards tomorrow. I'll be sure and let you know how that and highway handling w/o the front stabilizer bar goes. With the suspension set up we both have now with the proper shocks it's not needed EXCEPT FOR TOWING(at least for me). Later.
The other day I had trouble with a rear brake dragging. Seems the parking brake shoes had tightened up. BUT I'm gun shy right now wondering if it was a caliper issue to. Anyways I haven't used the XJ much. Heading out now to vote for the lesser of all the evils. If there's no brake issue I'll hit those washboards tomorrow. I'll be sure and let you know how that and highway handling w/o the front stabilizer bar goes. With the suspension set up we both have now with the proper shocks it's not needed EXCEPT FOR TOWING(at least for me). Later.
#17
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: SEMO
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L6
I would agree that it's not a requirement. But, I'm sure going to like to have it connected in an emergency maneuver/swerving situation. I pretty much leave mine connected on pavement unless I'm making a short trip to/from the dirt.
#18
Senior Member
Don't know why EM wants boots but while searching I came across a few users who said the plastic dust shields can deform and rub against the shock body removing the paint and also causing noise. Of course there's also the fact that the plastic ones don't actually seal as good as boots can.
I see a lot of JKs running around with very expensive shocks (fox remote reservoir, etc) with no covers on them at all. I get the feeling it may be more of a fashion statement, but it doesn’t really make sense in a place like New England where they salt the roads constantly as soon as night time temps go below freezing. I would think exposing the shaft to rocks and then salt would cause premature seal failure. Maybe I’m wrong.
#19
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L6
The opposite is my experience. The idea is to protect the shaft of the shock from dings, but still have a large opening for mud and water to drain out. Mud will make its way into boots or shields, but shields leave much more area for foreign material to drain out. If you spray some water up in the shields after a mud outing, they won't keep mud/dirt trapped in there.
#20
CF Veteran
The brake issue didn't happen again so we took a ride over to the next town. 55-60mph. Curved highway (this is WV!). Had to travel ~7miles on tar and chip (rough) roads to get to the highway. So far all I can say is I've got a more comfortable ride with no loss of handling performance. I'll hit the washboards tomorrow.
Last edited by EZEARL; 05-08-2018 at 02:56 PM.
#21
CF Veteran
All went well as expected. The red Rubicon shocks are doing all I need done as were the Monomax but noticeably with more comfort. Beginning to think the Monomax may have been overkill FOR ME.
#23
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Higganum,CT
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
So you are saying that a Stock XJ can run these shocks? Reason I ask, I am in dire need of new shocks, but I am waiting to save some money for a lift. My plan is to do a 3.5" Rubicon lift. But if these shocks will work for both situations, I will look into picking some of these up.
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