My 98 Jeep XJ automatic shifts fine first to second gear, but every gear after shifts at a abnormally high rpm or doesn't shift at all until I let off the gas. It will shift, just not correctly, and mainly when I let off the gas at a higher rpm. Already changed out the TPS and that didn't help. Cruise control also seems off. Any help would be greatly appreciated since I leave for Colorado Monday and really need this jeep to take with me. Thanks

 

Try adjusting the kick down cable.
Haven't got the link, but search for a thread called " free quick fix".
Try that to see if it solves the issue. If not, will look further.

 

Do you get a Check Engine light on? Does the Check Engine lamp work - key to RUN, before cranking? You could have a transmission related code stored in your PCM.

Is your Trans fluid full? Is it black or smell burnt (Dipstick look-see, smell)?

 

Kickdown cable is an EASY ADJUSTMENT THAT EVERYONE SHOULD DO

Literally just push down in the "D" shaped button (straight down) and that will allow you to pull (left) the extra slack on your throttle cable, usually a few clicks-worth (theres tiny little indents on the cable). Make sure it clicks into place (you'll be able to tell rather easily) - and it's done. Simple as that. I doubt this will fix your symptoms, however - it's more for getting the transmission to shift when it's actually supposed to instead of lagging behind for a few seconds... you'll get a bit more ***** out of it, it is rather noticeable.

But what CCKen said - check your trans fluid! You could possibly be losing some out of your trans lines to your cooler/rad - it's happened literally all 3 cherokees I've had, so check your trans lines, the compression fittings are garbage. If they're bad - you might as well just cut them at the metal near the trans and just run them straight to a new B&M trans cooler ($60 on amazon) - it's not even worth putting on new fittings IMO, since the ones at the rad are a PITA too.

When mine leaked bad, I never realized until I was very low on fluid - and it would slip pretty much how you described. AW4's are pretty much bomb proof, as long as they have fluid in them.

 

Check engine light is off. I just got it checked yesterday at auto zone in case the lamp didn't work, but its not throwing up any codes. The tranny fluid was way low when I checked it earlier this week, so changed fluid and filter and it didn't help the problem. I also tried adjusting the kick down cable and that did not help either.

 

Is the fluid level now at the MAX line on the dipstick after driving for around 15 miles to bring the fluid up to operating temp?

How did the fluid look and smell when you drained it?

Hate to be a PITA but you really didn't answer the question about the appearance and smell of the fluid.

Just trying to eliminate fluid issues. If the fluid is good and you are using Dexron III/Mercon ATF then you may have transmission internal issues...but that usually lights up the CEL.

 

The fluid that was drained was red and didn't smell burnt to me. I checked after driving around the other day for awhile and it was at max on the dipstick.

 

Have you tried the manual shift test yet?

 

I have not tried that yet. I will give that a try tomorrow.

 

As a refresher, here's the FSM procedures:

AW4 MANUAL SHIFTING TEST (FSM Procedures)

(1) This test determines if problem is related to mechanical or electrical component.

(2) Stop engine and disconnect transmission control module.

(3) Road test vehicle. Shift transmission into each gear range. Transmission should operate as follows:

• lock in Park
• back up in Reverse
• not move in Neutral
• provide first gear only with shift lever in 1–2 position
• operate in third gear only with shift lever in 3 position
• operate in overdrive fourth gear in D position

(4) If transmission operates as described, proceed to next step. However, if forward gear ranges were difficult to distinguish (all feel the same), or vehicle would not back up, refer to diagnosis charts. Do not perform stall or time lag tests.

CAUTION: Do not over speed the engine during the next test step. Ease off the throttle and allow the vehicle to slow before downshifting.

(5) Continue road test. Manually downshift transmission from D to 3, and from 3 to 1– 2 position. Then manually upshift transmission through forward ranges again.