Separating Driveshaft from Steering Knuckle
09-30-2009, 01:10 AM
#1
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Separating Driveshaft from Steering Knuckle
Does anyone have any advice on how to separate my axle/hub assembly from the steering knuckle? It's pretty rusted on there and I'm trying to replace my ball joints. The driver's side came right out but after undoing the three 12-point bolts I can't break it free. Any advice is appreciated.
09-30-2009, 01:40 AM
#3
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Thanks for your reply. I'm a huge fan of PB Blaster, its been soaking since I started the left side (~5 hrs ago) and still no luck. Might just let it soak overnight.
09-30-2009, 01:54 AM
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Year: 1997
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09-30-2009, 02:08 AM
#5
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Jeez, nice link. I'm definitely going to explore his site more when I get this hub and steering knuckle apart. I tried his suggestion of backing out the bolts just a little and working around them to no avail. Going to break out the torch to try to break some of the rust free.
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09-30-2009, 05:45 AM
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This is kinda hard to explain but once you figure it out it will take you 3 seconds and no effort to get it off. Get a socket extension and place one end at the middle of the "C" of your axle right beside the axle tube hole where your shaft exits the tube. And take the other end and place it on the back of the hub. It will take a little maneuvering to get it to sit in there correctly a helper would be best. Then with the truck on jack stands and running turn the wheel. Make the socket extension push the hub out. I hope you can understand my explanation because this works like a charm and is so easy.
09-30-2009, 06:15 AM
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This is kinda hard to explain but once you figure it out it will take you 3 seconds and no effort to get it off. Get a socket extension and place one end at the middle of the "C" of your axle right beside the axle tube hole where your shaft exits the tube. And take the other end and place it on the back of the hub. It will take a little maneuvering to get it to sit in there correctly a helper would be best. Then with the truck on jack stands and running turn the wheel. Make the socket extension push the hub out. I hope you can understand my explanation because this works like a charm and is so easy.
btw 3-0!!!! about to be 4-0 sunday!
09-30-2009, 11:31 AM
#11
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Yeah, that worked really well for the driver's side but I'm starting to think I might damage my power steering if I turn the wheel any more. I'm getting to the point that I might just back the bolts out a little and barrel down a dirt road. Weight of the vehicle combined with some gnarly front end chatter has got to be enough force to break it loose. I've already ruined a couple of the 12-point bolts, had to make a JY run but now I have some spares as well. BFH method cracked the socket I was using to avoid damaging the heads of the bolts. It is really on there.
09-30-2009, 11:48 AM
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You should try to figure out if its stuck on the spline shaft or in the bore. with the bolts out tap the triangular flange laterally, if it can rotate its stuck on the spline shaft. if not its more than likely stuck in the bore, if not both. ive seen people use gear pullers to grab them. that and some heat and pb... after that i dont know what to tell ya...
09-30-2009, 03:04 PM
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Yeah, that worked really well for the driver's side but I'm starting to think I might damage my power steering if I turn the wheel any more.
09-30-2009, 06:27 PM
#15
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Everyone, I appreciate your advice & help getting this thing to separate. After trying the force of power steering, a BFH on slightly backed out 12-point bolts, and a whole can of PB Blaster, I finally got it to separate by actually driving it. Washboard dirt roads at 30mph. I backed each bolt out until a penny could fit behind them and put some RTV on the threads so that the washboards wouldn't back them all the way out while I was driving it. I just found a straightaway at Rollins Pass Road in CO and gunned it, when I pulled over to check, the penny-space was gone and I tightened the bolts up to make it home. I guess it took the force of my XJ on some serious impact to break it free, but now that I have it home I can see the rust was severe; the PB blaster only penetrated about ¾ of the way down. I suppose if I had let PB soak several days it might have worked its way in but now that the rust is broken I'm wire-wheeling it and definitely throwing on some anti-sieze during reassembly.