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Seeping coolant after thermostat an water pump replacement

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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 06:25 AM
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Default Seeping coolant after thermostat an water pump replacement

Hey guys. I replaced a bunch of stuff yesterday (radiator, water pump, thermostat) and after I got everything put back together and started up, I noticed a had a leak from the thermostat housing and water pump. I removed the old gasket as best as I could with a razor scraper and installed new gaskets for each. I'm at a loss at what to do.
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 06:26 AM
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I also used blue rtv when I installed the new parts.
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 06:36 AM
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I had a heck of a time getting a water pump sealed up on a Chrysler vehicle. I mean I tried every trick I knew. I installed and reinstalled that pump THREE TIMES .....

#1 Used plenty of Silicone on BOTH sides of the gasket, torqued it all down and let it set 24 hours for silicone to sure - it LEAKED!

#2 Used plenty of Silicone on ONE side of the gasket, torqued it all down and let it set 24 hours for silicone to sure - it LEAKED!

#3 Threw out the gasket and used ONLY Silicone Gasket Maker, apply and even layer, attaching the pump, tightening it down slightly, let it set for 24 hours as per instructions - it LEAKED!

Then I decided to seek out some help!

A friend of mine said " DO NOT USE SILICONE ".

He said use PERMATEX High Tack Gasket Adhesive to apply the gasket to the pump, and leave the motor side of the gasket DRY. I used the SPRAY can as it applies a more even amount of adhesive.

So I went out and bought this stuff .......




I layed the gasket on a piece of waxed paper and sprayed a coat of the above adhesive on the gasket. I then applied the gasket to the water pump, the adhesive holding the gasket in place on the pump.

I installed the pump to the motor and torqued it down as specified.

Filled up the radiator with water and ran the motor to insure coolant was in the system.

Hooked up a pressure tester to the radiator fill port and began to pressurize the system.

NO LEAKS !!!!!!!!!

I was mad as hell at myself for WASTING THREE DAYS prior by using silicone. Not to mention the vehicle I was working on had the water pump BEHIND the timing belt cover.

I will not use SILICONE ever again when installing COOLING components.


CLEANING OFF THE OLD GASKET ---- A new trick I learned was to use SCOTCH BRITE PAD on an air operated orbital tool. Took that stuff right off and NO DAMAGE to the mating surfaces like scraping can do. I mean I was left with CLEAN SHINY METAL using the SCOTCH BRITE PAD.



They say you cannot teach an old dog new trick .... well that job taught this old dog a couple of new tricks!


.

Last edited by KD3NE; Feb 20, 2011 at 06:40 AM.
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 07:12 AM
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Thermostat housing can crack during a stat install..........Quite common. That is why there is a "torque spec" for those bolts.
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 10:49 AM
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I had this exact problem yesterday when replacing the T-stat. I cracked the original water outlet ran back to Oreiley's picked up another one for $11. Put the new one back on using Indian head Sealant and still leaked. Tightened down the water outlet some more and the new one cracked...... Back to oreiley's to exchange it and I asked what type sealant they recommend and he told me none. So I went back and installed the new outlet and gasket and proceeded to tighten the two bolts evenly and it still leaked so I tightened it down more and ............no leak. She is done and back to normal.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 12:48 PM
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Anyone know the torque specs for those bolts?
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthewjhawkins
Anyone know the torque specs for those bolts?
25 - 30 ft. lbs.
I stop at 28 ft. lbs.
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