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seeking advice buying first xj

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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:10 AM
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SnookiPunch's Avatar
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Default seeking advice buying first xj

I have decided to purchase an XJ (as a daily driver). Something along 97-01, around 150k miles, 4x4. This will be my first four wheel drive vehicle and am seeking some advice. Besides engaging 4 wheel drive, are there any test I can perform on a test drive to verify it works? Anything else I should look at?

I was not able to find a common issue that happens around x miles on these thing. I usually inspect the engine for leaks/smells, check steering, and perform a kicking of the tires

Just curious if any of you XJ experts have any suggestions? Thanks
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 06:24 AM
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transfer cases wearing out. its Chain driven and that chain stretches. motor mounts. They are great vehicles.
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 07:05 AM
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to the forum!!!


XJ's have the quirks typical to any other Jeep.

The main thing to look for on Cherokee's is rust. Rust is common on the Roof, around the back Hatch and down the sides of the Quarter Panels, bottom of Front Fenders, and sometimes, the Bottom of the Doors at the Rocker Panels.

Door Hinges are another well known failure point with XJ's and Factory Exhaust Manifolds tend to develop cracks when the Motor Mounts start to wear.


Other than that, Cherokee's are VERY solid vehicles!

Personally, i would consider '91- and later models, as they where the first 4.0L "H.O.'s".


For more info on Cherokee's...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Cherokee_%28XJ%29

http://www.oramagazine.com/pastissue...rticle=finesse



Good Luck with your search!!!

Last edited by guest02; Jan 13, 2010 at 07:07 AM.
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 07:15 AM
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Rust on the floors
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 01:21 AM
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These are definately solid vehicles. Just a little tip though that I did not see posted. Learn from my mistake. I purchased my 2001 cherokee classic 4x4 about 5 months ago. I spent more than an hour nit picking this jeep before I decided I couldn't find anything wrong with it (other than issues due to age) and talked the guy down to 2700 bucks witch was a steel. The one thing I forgot to do was check and see the last time it was inspected. When I went to register it I couldn't because it had a few codes that were failing but the guy I bought it from cleared the check engine light so I would not know. So to get it inspected i ended up having to spend three hundred bucks on coil packs (only 2001 models), spark plugs and a censor.

Other than that I am 150 percent saticfied with my purchase. Good luck hunting for yours. I recommend the 2001 models. this was the last year and they made the most power!
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 06:51 AM
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When you test drive it take it over 45 MPH....I made this mistake..The Jeep had a big death wobble at 45...
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 08:49 AM
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The 2000's have been known to have a cracking head issue, search 0331 head casting to find out more. Also rear main seal seem to leak on many of the 4.0 liter motors, not a hard fix just an annoyance.

As for testing it out, drive it for a while to let it warm up and make sure oil pressure is good and temp is good. Heat, AC, all electrical, etc. Normal stuff you would do when buying a used auto.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:23 AM
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I suggest you take it to a mechanic to have them look it over. I know it is a PITA to do this, but any seller will wlecome it if the sale happens. If issues are found then you can negotiate.


The 99-01 had a few issues with electrical problem caused by moisture behind the dash. There are several TSB's out about this, as this was also a problem with TJ's as well.

I suggest you buy the lowest mileage vehicle you can find. Keep in mind these things are at least 9/10 yrs old.



I personally prefer the pre 91 verions. The renix era xj's are stupid easy to work on, and from what I can tell they dont rust as fast as the newer one.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Mgonzo700
When you test drive it take it over 45 MPH....I made this mistake..The Jeep had a big death wobble at 45...
I agree. Besides a visual inspection make sure you take it to 55-60 mph and purposely hit something that will upset the suspension. Or just do what I did and replace the tires, track bar, steering and shocks.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 09:57 AM
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If its 1990 or earlier, check the cooling system carefully. They had overheating issues. Also, make sure the rear hatch opens easily.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 03:37 PM
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I bought mine for 2400 and within the next week had to put another 1700 bucks fixing it. I did every check I could think of, then check engine pops up then BAM, ii had to pay 1700 bucks to fix stuff that the owner cleard so i wouldnt know. But the good thing is he didnt know that it had a power chip in it and asked me if i knew what it was. I said no but i really did know what it was.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GoreXJ95
I bought mine for 2400 and within the next week had to put another 1700 bucks fixing it. I did every check I could think of, then check engine pops up then BAM, ii had to pay 1700 bucks to fix stuff that the owner cleard so i wouldnt know. But the good thing is he didnt know that it had a power chip in it and asked me if i knew what it was. I said no but i really did know what it was.
Yeah, same thing happened to me. luckily i didn't have to spend that much. Sorry to hear that. People are so "honest" these days aren't they.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by will3161
If its 1990 or earlier, check the cooling system carefully. They had overheating issues. Also, make sure the rear hatch opens easily.
They only have issues if the radiator gets blocked. I only own older XJ's and no issues to date.
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 08:44 AM
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wow guys this information is invaluable, thank you!

Last edited by SnookiPunch; Jan 15, 2010 at 10:02 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by linuxrick
The 2000's have been known to have a cracking head issue, search 0331 head casting to find out more. Also rear main seal seem to leak on many of the 4.0 liter motors, not a hard fix just an annoyance.

As for testing it out, drive it for a while to let it warm up and make sure oil pressure is good and temp is good. Heat, AC, all electrical, etc. Normal stuff you would do when buying a used auto.
The head cracked in my '01 and was replaced with a '99 by the previous owner. I've been told '99 was the best year for the High Output.
For the '97+ the Corporate 8.25" axles came with 29 splines, an added bonus.
It would have been cool to find one with an NP242 transfer case ("Selec-Trac").
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