NewKindOfClown

I went in the have my wheels re-aligned cause I was run off the road at 35mph two days after I paid to have it done. They said the left front is the only one out of alignment, and the camber is already adjusted as much as possible. They said I should replace the tie rod and it might help. I am mechanically useless, and im relying on you fine folks to educate me. Is there a way I can look and see if it should be replaced, how much would it cost, and can an amateur do it in a parking lot?
2001 Cherokee Sport, stock, with 235/75/15s (in case it matters)

- Tim

Xj1990

I replaced my steering system for 600 new tie rod, tie rod ends, stabilizers and did it on my drive way. Then took it to get aligned and all was well. It's a one ton system. I was an idiot and thought I would need it, but just eom would of been fine for what I do with it.

SeriousOffroad

Camber is not something that can be adjusted on a solid axle unless you replace the OE ball Joints with adjustable ball joints. Increasing or decreasing the amount of lower control arm shims will slightly change the camber because the knuckles are forced to move as the shim thickness changes.

This also causes a change in the pinion angle, which may cause front end driveline vibes and short u-joint life if the pinion angle is too severe (i.E. Pinion too far down.)

Since both steering knuckles are connected together via the tie-rod it's not possible to have 1 wheel out of alignment with regards to toe-in/toe-out.

That being said, a bent tie-rod will cause both wheels to point inward beyond the factory spec (1/2 degree, or 1/8-1/16")...so yes a new tie-rod may be needed.

If you wheel your rig I'd strongly recommend upgrading to get rid of the weak OEM steering.

My strongest recommendation though is this...

Don't let a discount store align your rig.

SeriousOffroad

$600?!?!?

I need to start charging more....

NewKindOfClown

Here's a crappy phone pic of the printout they gave me. From what you're saying, it sounds like this is just wrong. But the guy who relayed the info said he doesn't know or care about cars and just needed a job, so I don't know if he actually told me what the tech said...

- Tim

SeriousOffroad

According to the FSM;

Preferred Camber Angle− 0.25°

Allowed − 0.75° to +0.5°

Max. Rt/Lt Difference 1.0°


Total TOE-IN

Preferred + 0.25°

Range 0° to + 0.45°

Max. Rt/Lt Difference .05°

tiwvr1

I work for a "national tire chain" actually use to be part of sears 10 years ago. This is the crap that gives us a bad name. There is NO WAY a tierod will help with that camber issue. And to tell you the truth, its not that bad. And the only way to fix it is a new knuckle (maybe), a new axle (maybe), or a adjustable ball joint.

Word to all of you, not all national tire chain stores suck. The problem arrises when they have a manager, and sales people that dont know jack bout cars, and they hire anyone off the street, all they see is the numbers, they know nothing about what they mean...

Rant done

NewKindOfClown

I dont mind the rant as long as you have a reason for it, and it sounds like you do. So replacing the ball joints with adjustables: What are the pros and cons? Is it worth the trouble on my particular rig? How much would it cost, and could I do it myself?

- Tim

SeriousOffroad

Not bad enough to justify the cost of the ball joints.