And then you can measure the Jeep and we can help by making suggestions for the sagging rear springs. Full leaf packs and dump the block would be my suggestion, money allowing.

 

obviously..i know that full leaves and no blocks is the best route but time and money are extremely limited for me for a while thats why i asked for cheap and/or easy options

 

If you just want to level it out, like I said, your center cap-to-fender flare measurement should be .5" less in the rear, so that's where you want to be. Shackles come in several different heights, so its up to you to decide what to go with to acheive a level rig.

That will get you by for a good while, but when the easily obtainable negative arch in your soft OEM springs begins to slack them out even more, THEN will be the time for new packs - when the money arrives.

 

well going by what you say it's just a tad higher in the front than you say it should be so maybe it really is just more of an illusion than anything cause of the rear flares being lower on the body.....i did take a couple other measurements tho (none exact i realize cause of ground variances etc.) but from the ground to the body line (which seems to be a consistant level line through the jeep) the rear is actually a little higher....maybe it's fine the way it is

 

The flares cause optical illusions I think. My buddy swore his was higher than mine but he had removed his flares and I had not. They measured exactly the same in the rear and mine was 1/4" higher in the front.

 

yea it really does play tricks with your eyes

 

Sure can!!

 

Well, if it's really important to you, there is the "Dirty Method" of measuring your vehicle's height. I gave you the clean way (center cap to flare), but if you MUST know, here's the dirty way...

Checking Front Ride Height

Measure front ride height with the vehicle unloaded (no luggage or passengers) and with the fuel tank full.

Place the vehicle on a level surface and measure the veryical distance between the top of the axle tube (A) and the underside of the frame sill (B). Refer to Figure 1 for driver's side measurement and Figure 2 for passenger side measurement. Be sure each measurement is taken from the top of the tube and not from the axle or shift motor housings.

With Standard or Soft Ride Suspension, vertical distance should be 17 cm (6-3/4 inches) plus or minus 13 mm (1/2 inch). With Heavy Duty Suspension, vertical distance should be 20 cm (7-3/4 inches) plus or minus 13 mm (1/2 inch).



Checking Rear Ride Height

Measure rear ride height with the vehicle unloaded (no luggage or passengers) and with the fuel tank full.

Place the vehicle on a level surface and measure the vertical distance between the top of the axle tube (C) and the underside of the frame sill (D) inboard of the jounce bumper (E).

With Standard or Soft Ride Suspension, vertical distance should be 15 cm (6 inches) plus or minus 13 mm (1/2 inch). With Heavy Duty Suspension, vertical distance should be 18 cm (7 inches) plus or minus 13 mm (1/2 inch).




But chances are, it's just the flares playing tricks on your eyeballz.

 

Good illustrtion True. That BTW is the real way to measure ride height and the flare method can be incorrect while this is always accurate. Thanks True!! Hows the saggy rear problem of yours doing??

 

I was trying it to make it easy on him with the clean method, but he started second guessing himself, so I had to pull out the BIG GUNS!

My rear's not too saggy. I started doing 50 squats a day and 200 lb. leg lifts, but it's still a little flat, so I might spring for silicone implants. Then I'll be bootylicious like J-Lo.

 

Interesting!!!

 

I had thought my back end was sagging a bit; but did the messurements as suggested and have a 3/4 inch droop. I think the optical illusion was getting me. It looked like a much bigger droop.

I had put new springs on when putting the 4in lift on. The back actually set about an inch high, but slowly settled down over the last 4 months. As long as it doesn't sag anymore; I'm thinking 3/4 should be fine.

 

Shackles can help regain that small loss and can help with some future sag if that occurs. New full leaf packs are the best but can be quite pricey.

 

I thought you had been using the Buns of Steel video for the flabby cheek syndrome you were suffering from!!

 

Pricy... I KNOW. When I said I put new springs on with the lift... I had gotten whole new leaf spring set. It was right in the neighborhood of $500. I expected some "settling" once the new springs got some use. I hope it stops where it is now! I really want to save the $ for the front bumer and winch!