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Safe Way to Test Fan Clutch?

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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 10:13 AM
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Default Safe Way to Test Fan Clutch?

I think I found a safe way to test your radiator fan clutch -- there is just no way I was going to stick anything in it while it was running.

I had just replaced it and as I was running it to warm it up I was smoking a cigarette as I let it warm up and I noticed that the smoke from the cigarette was being sucked into the radiator -- so here it is

get in a calm area -- no wind
crank it up and let it warm up
using a lit cigarette or a candle (for you non-smokers)
if your fan doesn't suck in smoke into the radiator from 10" to 12" away it's bad

and then there's these:
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...s=ds&form=QBIR

what do you guys think?
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 10:18 AM
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This might help.
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 10:24 AM
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With your tongue and a blindfold.
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 10:27 AM
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^^^ THIS!!!!
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 10:52 AM
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 12:08 PM
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I usually drink 3 or 4 beers. stand a foot from the grille, and pee into the grille. If the rear of the valve cover is wet, the fan clutch is good. Anything less than reaching the rear is an indication of fan clutch wear. If only the fan blades are wet, you know for sure it's toast. I wait til the next day for everything to dry before performing any repairs.
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 01:15 PM
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......and there's that beamer again with pistons swapping holes noise. LOL
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I usually drink 3 or 4 beers. stand a foot from the grille, and pee into the grille. If the rear of the valve cover is wet, the fan clutch is good. Anything less than reaching the rear is an indication of fan clutch wear. If only the fan blades are wet, you know for sure it's toast. I wait til the next day for everything to dry before performing any repairs.
and I guess if the fan blades not even get wet, the next check thing to check is the prostate
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Roler

and I guess if the fan blades not even get wet, the next check thing to check is the prostate
Is there a writeup for that??
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 07:39 AM
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For those that can read and understand the English Language, these are the Vicous Fan Drive Test Procedures:

VISCOUS FAN DRIVE

LEAKS
Viscous fan drive operation is not affected by small oil stains near the drive bearing. If leakage appears excessive, replace the fan drive unit.

TESTING
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag (the fan blades will revolve more than five turns when spun by hand), replace the fan drive. This spin test must be performed when the engine is cool.

For the following test, the cooling system must be in good condition. It also will ensure against excessively high coolant temperature.

WARNING: BE SURE THAT THERE IS ADEQUATE FAN BLADE CLEARANCE BEFORE DRILLING.

(1) Drill a 3.18-mm (1/8-in) diameter hole in the top center of the fan shroud.

(2) Obtain a dial thermometer with an 8 inch stem (or equivalent). It should have a range of -18°-to-105°C (0°-to-220° F). Insert thermometer through the hole in the shroud. Be sure that there is adequate clearance from the fan blades.

(3) Connect a tachometer and an engine ignition light).

(4) Block the air flow through the radiator. Secure a sheet of plastic in front of the radiator (or air conditioner condenser). Use tape at the top to secure the plastic and be sure that the air flow is blocked.

(5) Be sure that the air conditioner (if equipped) is turned off.

WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.

(6) Start the engine and operate at 2400 rpm. Within ten minutes the air temperature (indicated on the dial thermometer) should be up to 88° C (190° F). Fan drive engagement should have started to occur at between 74° to 82° C (165° to 180° F). Engagement is distinguishable by a definite increase in fan flow noise (roaring). The timing light also will indicate an increase in the speed of the fan.

(7) When the air temperature reaches 88° C (190° F), remove the plastic sheet. Fan drive disengagement should have started to occur at between 57° to 79° C (135° to 175° F). A definite decrease of fan flow noise (roaring) should be noticed. If not, replace the defective viscous fan drive unit.
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by salad
Is there a writeup for that??
Yes, but it's in Penthouse.
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
For those that can read and understand the English Language
Awh

I was wondering if someone was going to post that. I suspect that, unless required to do so under warranty, most dealer techs skipped that process and just replaced the fan clutch. WAY cheaper.
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 07:46 AM
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I tested mine following Cruiser's method and passed...I got a bit on my shoes but that's whole different topic...
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by salad
Awh

I was wondering if someone was going to post that. I suspect that, unless required to do so under warranty, most dealer techs skipped that process and just replaced the fan clutch. WAY cheaper.
The dealer would indeed pop one in your ****, but I don't think the free-wheeling test would be too much to ask.
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Roler
and I guess if the fan blades not even get wet, the next check thing to check is the prostate
One step ahead of you, Roler. I had my yearly physical July of this year.

YMMV though and point well taken. LOL.
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