Rustys Offroad Flexible Fender Flares
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 47
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From: Union, Oregon
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Is anyone running Rustys Offroad flexible version of their flares?
Seems like the better option of the 2 for me BUT was wondering if they start drooping after awhile or if they keep their shape, discolor fast, any other probs I never thought of. Thx for any info.
Some input on the normal stiffer flares pros and cons over the flexible ones is welcome as well. Just heard these break way to easy. Again Thx!
Seems like the better option of the 2 for me BUT was wondering if they start drooping after awhile or if they keep their shape, discolor fast, any other probs I never thought of. Thx for any info.
Some input on the normal stiffer flares pros and cons over the flexible ones is welcome as well. Just heard these break way to easy. Again Thx!
Last edited by TwiztedAgony; Nov 8, 2009 at 03:24 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 187
Likes: 1
From: Dover PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Power Tech I-6
pretty sure bushwackers come with lifetime warranty not sure what's covered. I've seen both on Quadratec.com & they were almost 200 bucks more for a set. I'm gettin ready to lift my 98 xj 6" & it has a 8.25 rear what all did you do to drivetrain to acquire lift?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 47
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From: Union, Oregon
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yea Bushwacker makes great products but their design for a 4 door XJ is crap IMO .. the 2 piece rear flares that 1/3 mounts to your door is just crappy thinking .. again IMO .. plus Rustys allows for more trimming and clearance in the front, add to that the one piece rear flares Rusty has Bushwacker beat in the design process on XJ flares.
EDIT: As far as driveline mods .. I just have a SYE and a front driveshaft in the rear .. my rear is a lil lower then the front atm till I get some 6" springs for the rear (right now I am running a bastard pack with 2" blocks). I also added drop pitman arm , JKS shock converters (Don't need these but IMO its a must and fixes one of the worst shock mounting designs ever from Jeep) , JKS quicker disconnects (A lot cheaper ones available .. Son is running a set from Rustys and has had no probs although JKS are probly the best built, easiest to use, and worth the price IMO), bout it that I can recall of the top of my head. I am sure I am missing a lot lol. As U can tell I never went with a kit for one they are SPENDY, for two U can piece together kits with overall better parts in the long run, every kit has its pros and cons and if U piece the pros from each kit together U get a better overall lift IMO.
EDIT EDIT: U also need to modify your control arm or get a long arm kit. Cheapest way is to just drop them lower with a bracket. (right now I am kinda in between guess U could call them mid arms lol). Eventually I am moving to TNT Customs Y-Link Arm Kit. Of course U need longer brake lines as well .. IF U go with a kit most this stuff comes with it.
EDIT: As far as driveline mods .. I just have a SYE and a front driveshaft in the rear .. my rear is a lil lower then the front atm till I get some 6" springs for the rear (right now I am running a bastard pack with 2" blocks). I also added drop pitman arm , JKS shock converters (Don't need these but IMO its a must and fixes one of the worst shock mounting designs ever from Jeep) , JKS quicker disconnects (A lot cheaper ones available .. Son is running a set from Rustys and has had no probs although JKS are probly the best built, easiest to use, and worth the price IMO), bout it that I can recall of the top of my head. I am sure I am missing a lot lol. As U can tell I never went with a kit for one they are SPENDY, for two U can piece together kits with overall better parts in the long run, every kit has its pros and cons and if U piece the pros from each kit together U get a better overall lift IMO.
EDIT EDIT: U also need to modify your control arm or get a long arm kit. Cheapest way is to just drop them lower with a bracket. (right now I am kinda in between guess U could call them mid arms lol). Eventually I am moving to TNT Customs Y-Link Arm Kit. Of course U need longer brake lines as well .. IF U go with a kit most this stuff comes with it.
Last edited by TwiztedAgony; Nov 8, 2009 at 04:53 PM.
Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 187
Likes: 1
From: Dover PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Power Tech I-6
I was just gonna go with a skjacker complete kit their rock ready kit. but I deffinently like the y-link design it looks tough allows you to pretty much build a frame from front to back. how difficult is to add their y-link system to your lift just bolt right on cause I too would like to put their system on later with their frame stiffners & 4 bolt conversion kit for steering box this year & the rock sliders with the bellypan & y-links during next year would tie it all together nicely.
Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 187
Likes: 1
From: Dover PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Power Tech I-6
front driveshaft in rear is that cause of sye is that called a short drive shaft kit cause I was lookin at one from teraflex to go with their t.case. the NP231 is that aftermarket or stock?
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 47
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From: Union, Oregon
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Stock np231 with a SYE kit installed .. SYE Kit is a Slip Yoke Eliminator .. U use the front drive line out of a XJ automatic cause it needs to be longer after the SYE works perfect being almost the exact length might be a tad short for a 6" lift but worked for me most use em with 4" or shorter thou (from what I have gathered).
Skyjacker Rock Ready 6" kit should come with its own long arms (They may have a budget 6" lift that has a control arm drop bracket) but their Rock Ready systems come with long arm kits .. so keep that in mind be a waste to get that and go to TNT Customs long arms later just for the clearance .. if they do make a budget 6" lift and U want the TNT long arms .. that would be the way to go.
The Y-link kit is pretty much bolt on with some drilling but nothing ever fits right (or doesn't seem to with my experiences lol). Also TNT Customs sells complete lifts that have the y-link arms included for cheaper then Skyjacker lifts BUT I have no idea how good they are (sound decent thou). On the flip side of that Skyjacker makes the best leaf springs I have ever used NICE NICE ride. I have a 4" Skyjacker lift on my CJ5 and I LOVE IT flexes like a beast and rides so smooth compared to other lifts I have used. Main reason I am saving to get Skyjacker 5.5" springs for the rear of the XJ more spendy but I know they will ride way better then Rustys and other cheaper ones.
Skyjacker Rock Ready 6" kit should come with its own long arms (They may have a budget 6" lift that has a control arm drop bracket) but their Rock Ready systems come with long arm kits .. so keep that in mind be a waste to get that and go to TNT Customs long arms later just for the clearance .. if they do make a budget 6" lift and U want the TNT long arms .. that would be the way to go.
The Y-link kit is pretty much bolt on with some drilling but nothing ever fits right (or doesn't seem to with my experiences lol). Also TNT Customs sells complete lifts that have the y-link arms included for cheaper then Skyjacker lifts BUT I have no idea how good they are (sound decent thou). On the flip side of that Skyjacker makes the best leaf springs I have ever used NICE NICE ride. I have a 4" Skyjacker lift on my CJ5 and I LOVE IT flexes like a beast and rides so smooth compared to other lifts I have used. Main reason I am saving to get Skyjacker 5.5" springs for the rear of the XJ more spendy but I know they will ride way better then Rustys and other cheaper ones.
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