worse than i originally thought.

 

Yes Jeeps (especially older ones) aren't exactly known for being weather-tight (Cherokees are better than this regard than wranglers, but are still known for leaking). Common areas for leaks include the weather-stripping (especially if it is cracked torn or rotted), the AC drain line (it gets plugged and causes condensate to back-up and flow out onto the floor), the firewall seam sealer (or really any place seam sealer is used, the factory stuff dries out and gets brittle over time), firewall grommets (or if the previous owner added wires without using grommets or sealer), and sometimes the roof-rack mounting holes (if the vehicle is equipped with roof rails).



Anything rotted will need to be cut out and replaced, for any good metal with light/surface rust, clean it up the best you can and then hit it with some good rust-inhibitor paint (POR15, Chassis-Saver, Rust-Bullet, etc.).


You'll either need to fix the leak or get rid of the carpeting (it holds water like a sponge and keeps the floors wet, accelerating rust), it is common for people to pull the carpets and bed-line the floors to prevent rust from water intrusion, but without the insulation of the carpet and padding the vehicle will be noisier and hotter inside.

 

where is the

 

Excellent advice to follow!

 

Water gets in a few places like the ac drain clogged,The windshield its self can leak so can any of the doors and their windows.

 

The best price I was able to find on Chassis Saver was $75.00 / gallon from ebay Chassis Saver comes in variations of Black, Silver and Grey.

The best current price from eBay is around ~$85.00 / gallon with free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnet-Paint...p=mtr#shpCntId

 

i ordered

 

I have so far only used Miracle Paint and some ~20 year old Military Grade (Navy) Epoxy Paint that's rated to be used from around -40 to over 400 deg. F. (After a number of years light rust has started to seep through the surface of the epoxy paint applied to sand blasted lpg tanks, that have been under cover outdoors.)

The Miracle Paint is a rust encapsulator, moisture cured non porous urethane paint.

Same as many of these rust paints such as Por-15, Chassis Saver, Rust Bullet, Eastwood rust encapsulator, etc.

Miracle paint which I've used does dry rock hard, impossible to sand. The rusted metal surfaces I used it on, it became a permanent coating that feels and appears to be part of the metal. It's doesn't have much in the way of UV protection and needs a top coat when exposed to UV rays. After a while it begins fade and change color when exposed to UV rays. Most any good topcoat prevents damage from UV light.

Rust Bullet claims it's a newer more modern improved paint technology, however it's still a moisture cured urethane paint, same as the others. The salt water testing 300 and 500 hours I only seen one video which didn't compare it to Miracle Paint, Por-15, Chassis Saver, Eastwood and others.

Rust Bullet cost is around twice as much as similar rust paints. I'm having difficult time believing it works twice a good as similar moistured cured urethane paints. It's more likely Rust Bullet has a slight edge or a small percentage improvement over other similar rust paints.

Por-15 I've read you need to carefully follow a three step process when applying or failure is likely to occur.

What ever brand is used these paints are designed to go over rust and installed on non-smooth surfaces. Problems may occur when applied to smooth and new metal surfaces, which should be sand blasted, sanded or at least ruffed up with a wire wheel before application.

____

Not certain about the AC I removed my AC including the compressor from the engine compartment, as it wasn't being used and would require an overhall. I now have two good AC compressors, one with a bad pulley, plus the AC hoses, etc. sitting in storage. I was going to remove the condenser but left it to protect the radiator.

 

Another common leak spot is the top of the windshield. Because of the Cherokee design where the body is the frame, when the vehicle flexes it can break the seal on a worn out seal on your windshield. In my Cherokee the leak will soak the headliner, drip onto my steering wheel and then onto my drivers seat and the floor.

 

it seems that

 

Prep work significantly helps, depends on what sort of rust problem your trying to repair. The products mentioned are also designed to go directly over rust without much prep work other than removing the loose rust.

A product's instructions and guidelines should give you an idea how much prep work is necessary.

There's different methods to prepare. When repairing rusted areas I normally use some sort of rust neutralizer such as naval jelly or vinegar, then use a wire wheel to rough up the metal and further prepare rusted areas .

Some products such as POR-15 have strict procedures and instructions, from what I've read you need to follow their directions to a T.

I haven't yet tried any of spray on rust neutralizers that are suppose to remove all of the rust, leaving only metal.