I have wondered that myself. That's one of the reasons I'm replacing the rail and injectors. I can't afford the time to keep fiddling around with this, and at 6-8 MPG, I'm burning a lot of cash with this problem, not to mention how bad this is for the engine.

The service manager suggested taking a close look at the cat, too, which I will do. It could very well be trashed by now.

I'm out of town at the moment, so won't get to this until next weekend. By then the parts should have arrived, and I can hit this next Saturday.

One thing I'm worried about is the fuel line connector being so rusted it won't come apart, or go back together properly.

I'll be replacing the rotor & cap, too, as they are in bad shape, even though they are new. Probably a result of high resistance due to the super-rich environment.

All that and an oil change is on the schedule for next week.

 

Well, nary a word from Programbo, so I've found another source for injectors.

 

Before attempting to unhook the connector, squirt a little penetrating oil in the opening. There's a metal clip in there that rusts into place and is difficult to get undone sometimes.

Rust on the outside is cosmetic.

Use the proper 5/16" releae tool. Advance auto has a good one. It's Red in color. Don't get that Aluminum colored cheap scissor-like tool.

 

I plan to give it a good soaking for a few days. Acetone & trans fluid. Best penetrating oil out there.

Depends how deep it is!


I learned that lesson already!

 

I wouldn't use Acetone on that disconnect. It will leach in to the o-rings and perhaps ruin them.

 

Oh, yeah. 10-4. Back to the PB Blaster.

The acetone/ATF mix works a lot better, but it should be limited to metal parts only.

Thanks for the reminder.

 

I use Kroil but I've found that off the shelf Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil is good. You might try this instead of PB Blaster. Found it at Lowe's and Home Depot.

 

+1 Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil. Yellow and white can. Excellent stuff, smells great too

 

Good to know.

Some years back a machinist's magazine did a controlled study on penetrating oils. They made up a bunch of bolts with nuts and rusted them. IIRC they were fastened on to a piece of plate steel and torqued into place, then a salt water cycle to get them good and rusty.

Then they used various penetrants to see what would work. They measured the force required to turn the nuts. Multiple bolts for each type of penetrant, to average the results.

WD-40 was only slightly better than nothing (no surprise there, it's not a penetrating oil), and PB Blaster was far ahead of most, coming out the 2nd best commercial product. Kroil was the best commercial product, needing only HALF the force of PB Blaster. The acetone/ATF mix needed about half the force of Kroil.

I don't remember if they got Liquid Wrench in the mix, though.

 

Strangest thing..I've tried mixing Acetone and ATF and it refused to mix. Let the mix sit for a day and it seperated. Did I do something wrong?

 

Normal, temporary emulsification is the best you'd get. You gotta shake it like Ensure

 

Who needs it?

No one that I can think of.

 

Well, I know it needs to shaken. I'll have to take your word about the Ensure.

Or did you just use that example because you figured Ken would understand?

 

It was for Ken. I've heard he prefers prune juice and oatmeal to loosen things up.........