Rough idle following spark plug change
#1
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Rough idle following spark plug change
Changed spark plugs and removed my hcv on my 95 converting it to the 97 hose setup. Everything went well until I noticed the Jeep idling rough. Seems like the sound is a muffled clapping coming from the middle of my exhaust manifold. Any issues that could’ve come up from this repair? Any help is appreciated!
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L L6 PowerTech (stock)
You could have bad wires that moving around was the last straw before breakage. Did you also replace the cap and rotor for the distributor or the wires from the coil to the cap and from the cap to the plugs?
What was the condition of the previous plugs?
What was the condition of the previous plugs?
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L L6 PowerTech (stock)
I re-read. You could have spilled coolant into the distributor. Ensure that that is clean and dry as well as the holes for the spark plugs.
It could theoretically be coolant around the spark plugs. You would have to have coolant fill the level from the bottom of the hole to the top of the plugs and have it connect inside of the boot to have trouble there.
It could theoretically be coolant around the spark plugs. You would have to have coolant fill the level from the bottom of the hole to the top of the plugs and have it connect inside of the boot to have trouble there.
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I re-read. You could have spilled coolant into the distributor. Ensure that that is clean and dry as well as the holes for the spark plugs.
It could theoretically be coolant around the spark plugs. You would have to have coolant fill the level from the bottom of the hole to the top of the plugs and have it connect inside of the boot to have trouble there.
It could theoretically be coolant around the spark plugs. You would have to have coolant fill the level from the bottom of the hole to the top of the plugs and have it connect inside of the boot to have trouble there.
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Year: 1992
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Engine: 4.0L L6 PowerTech (stock)
Did you check for fluid under the cap even though you didn't replace it nor remove it? It is very easy to remove. It is two captured screws that need unwinding. If you're in there, then examine the rotor for spring as well. Both the rotor and cap are wearing parts that are to be periodically replaced.
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Did you check for fluid under the cap even though you didn't replace it nor remove it? It is very easy to remove. It is two captured screws that need unwinding. If you're in there, then examine the rotor for spring as well. Both the rotor and cap are wearing parts that are to be periodically replaced.
#7
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Did you check for fluid under the cap even though you didn't replace it nor remove it? It is very easy to remove. It is two captured screws that need unwinding. If you're in there, then examine the rotor for spring as well. Both the rotor and cap are wearing parts that are to be periodically replaced.
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Year: 1992
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How long have you idler or driven since this issue? I'm thinking that getting to temperature would evaporate any spillage.
It may be that this had nothing to do with the other.
It may be that this had nothing to do with the other.
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Year: 1992
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I'd try to diagnose now. What is the pressure for the fuel at the rail? You can "rent" a free gauge for this from O'Reilly's et cetera. What is the voltage cold and running from the starter to the ground bolt on the block? Measuring this way reflects what the vehicle is experiencing. Compare those measures with post to post of the battery in the same two conditions.
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