Rough Country 3"
Lifting isn't hard at all, man. Disconnect control arms and track bar, insert springs and bolt control arms back up before installing new track bar (if applicable, of course), and go for it. 
Shocks come last.

Shocks come last.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Los angeles
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I already bought some pb blaster yesterday and sprayed all kinds of areas that i think i would have to remove (but again i'm not sure which specific bolts and items to remove). If anyone has link to some sort of step by step instructions i would really appreciate it.
I got the one with lower control arms. they say it really helps. i have noticed 0 handleing difference over stock and loveing it. As far as detailed intrsuctions.. kinda. it's pretty much here is the part swap it out. they tell you the order in the directions, but it's pretty straight forward. plan it to take 2 days. 1 day i knocked out the front end and the second i knocked out rear. I needed a spring compressor to get my front springs in. just some food for thought for yall. hope i helped
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Los angeles
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i found these instructions, is this pretty much it?
http://www.jeepbrokers.com/jeep_proj...rokee_lift.htm
http://www.jeepbrokers.com/jeep_proj...rokee_lift.htm
I installed the 3in with add a leaf. It probably took 8 hrs or so. Just make sure you have a long breaker bar and some patience. Some of the bolts were pretty tough. You can get the front springs in without a compresser. Just jack up the opposite side of the axle.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 495
Likes: 2
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
I have the 3" RC with the full leaf packs and I love this setup. I have put it through hell and back and have had no issues with any of the RC parts. I'm actually about to add their adjustable shackles, their control arm drop brackets, their adjustable trackbar, and their new quick disconnects today! (As well as an RE spacer in the front and some new extended bumpstops) I'll always sing the praises about RC's products and have continued to buy from them, as i always will, great products and great service!
As far as the lift install goes, spray every bolt that will be turned with PB Blaster every day for about a week or two leading up the the day you perform the install. This will help prevent anything from sticking. This is especially important with the rear upper shock bolts, and the front leaf spring bolts. they typically give people the most trouble. And you can always just "flex" the front axle to get the springs out by jacking one side up and pushing the side you are working on down until the spring pretty much falls outta there. A spring compressor makes the process easier sometimes, but if you are disconnecting the control arms anyways, it's easier just to drop the axle far enough to get the springs out.
As far as the lift install goes, spray every bolt that will be turned with PB Blaster every day for about a week or two leading up the the day you perform the install. This will help prevent anything from sticking. This is especially important with the rear upper shock bolts, and the front leaf spring bolts. they typically give people the most trouble. And you can always just "flex" the front axle to get the springs out by jacking one side up and pushing the side you are working on down until the spring pretty much falls outta there. A spring compressor makes the process easier sometimes, but if you are disconnecting the control arms anyways, it's easier just to drop the axle far enough to get the springs out.
Yessir. It can be done by just unbolting the lower control arm and jacking the other side of the axle up. I did it using this method with 4.5" springs AND a boost puck, so I know it can be done with a 3" unit. In fact, if your kit doesn't come with LCAs, I wouldn't even unbolt them at all. Just jack and install. Install the top first, then the bottom of the spring.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: Groton, Ct
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I installed the 3 inch rough country lift in my xj a few weeks ago. I love it. My only problem was that all 4 shock bolts in the back snapped off so i had to weld in my shocks. It only took me and my friend about three hours to put in. Afterwards we had to set the toe. It rides just about as smooth as stock and doesn't seem to have sagged yet.
Also i tried to by the lift from carparts.com they sent me 8 shocks and no coils or add a leafs. so i called them up and they said they would let me know whether to send in all the parts or just the duplicate parts. After a week i called them back, they told me the lift kit was discontinued and they were giving me my money back. So i bought it off the actual roughcountry website for like 50 bucks more plus 40 bucks shipping. good luck bro
Also i tried to by the lift from carparts.com they sent me 8 shocks and no coils or add a leafs. so i called them up and they said they would let me know whether to send in all the parts or just the duplicate parts. After a week i called them back, they told me the lift kit was discontinued and they were giving me my money back. So i bought it off the actual roughcountry website for like 50 bucks more plus 40 bucks shipping. good luck bro
If you are a member on jeepforum.com you can PM the Rough Country vendor on there and get a 10% discount.
I had this kit on my old jeep and loved it. I'm going 4.5" longarm kit from RC this time.
I had this kit on my old jeep and loved it. I'm going 4.5" longarm kit from RC this time.
Though there are no pics in THIS WRITE UP, it's a lot better in my opinion. He mentions that a longer track bar should be used or to straighten the stock one. I'm new to all this. I assume that is the bar that runs parallel to the front axle then over the front diff cover. This is the first time I've heard mention of it when looking at 3" lift info. What happens if you leave it stock?
Last edited by metoo; Apr 24, 2010 at 10:59 AM.
Well, the track bar connects to the frame, and to the axle itself. It centers the Jeep over the axle, and centers the axle under the Jeep. It is the reason that the Jeep doesn't just shift side to side when the wheel is turned.
So, when the Jeep goes up, but the track bar stays the same length, the Jeep's body will be slightly off center. Honestly, at three inches, I wouldn't think you would necessarily NEED a bigger track bar, but each to his own.
So, when the Jeep goes up, but the track bar stays the same length, the Jeep's body will be slightly off center. Honestly, at three inches, I wouldn't think you would necessarily NEED a bigger track bar, but each to his own.
Anyone who has this kit with the full leaf packs ever towed with it? Does it sag a lot? I have a small boat, and don't want that "dog that got kicked in the ***" look when towing.
Last edited by Crunch; Apr 25, 2010 at 02:22 PM.


