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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Sorry if this is in the wrong forum I apologize but I don't have access to all the forums at this point since I'm brandy neu here.
So here's the situation. A week ago I picked up a 98 Cherokee Classic. It's got the upcountry package and some miles on it. 222k to be exact.
Runs really well and after a couple hours of my time and very few dollars the oil pressure gauge works, A/C is working and all the doors and windows electronics work properly.
So the bad. As the title states I'm thinking about a roof replacement.
What sold me on this particular Cherokee, aside from the cheap acquisition price, was how solid the floors, rockers and pretty much the unibody is.
But there is rust on the roof. Mostly the front windshied area but lots of surface rust up top too.
Pictures
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So I'm at the point where I think it might just be easier to replace the whole roof rather than try and repair what's there. Plus I have the feeling that once the roof panel is off there will be other things that need attention based on the amount of rust.
Also I cut off the outer lip of the front windshield weatherstrip to see how things looked under it and as expected the front edge of the roof is rusted through in 4 different places. I haven't got any pictures of that yet. But that kind of sealed the deal in my opinion.
Good news is that the window frame in the A pillars and cowl area is not rusty at all. It's almost all confined to the roof.
So does anyone have any experience/insight in replacing the roof panel?
on YouTube when he fabricated his own removable roof panel. I don't have his same skill level...
I've seen companies who make replacement floorboards for rusted out floors. I wish they'd make the same for the roof panel. If it is made, I haven't seen it.
On my 2000 XJ Sport, the rust on the roof is the absolute worst. I'm knee-deep in (5 hours) trying to use a grinder and 36 grit flappy discs to eradicate the rust.
Suffice it to say that I've run into some hiccups (deep pitted rust and warping from the heat of the grinding process).
Admittedly, I'm a total newb, but jumped in anyway.
Anything from all y'all's expertise?
pics of the project so far: Removing the rails, pre-grinding Removed paint layers first. The worst black, pitted rust. Grinder after a lot of usage. Before trying to focus on grinding down the black rust. After an hour of trying to grind down the black rust 😥😫😵
As far as I have searched roof panels are not made... So cut and weld "good" replacement sheet metal from a "good" roof IE windshield area etc. As for the main part of the roof I would try better living thru chemistry IE rust conversion coatings and some primer and topcoat. East wood currently is a source for roller applied paint. As for using a wire paint stripper use roller type paint/rust removing tool Harbor Freight sells Bauer 9-amp surface conditioning tool for about $120 or so.. Instead of a wire brush it uses either a nonwoven brush or flap brushes these generally do not cause overheating and warping. Eastwood makes a more expensive version (original tool). One other method is of course sand or other media blasting..
Robby Layton did a couple videos reskinning the roof on Matt's Offroad Recovery's XJ. There are a ton of details in these videos and should, at very least, show you what is required to do it professionally.
serious dilemma there, good luck finding one that has a good enough roof to chop though ?
It would have to have been babied
the other thing you can do (while keeping truck on road), remove headlining biscuit, tackle one corner at a time, you have to fabricate new pieces and mig weld them in
for black pitted rust, and angle grinder with wire brush fitted, in conjunction with the fibre strip wheel gets down deeper
I then use a die grinder to get any left overs, just think dentistry
The Extreme Chassis Black and Rust Encapsulator products that I've used from Eastwood ended up being complete and absolute junk. I will NEVER buy another paint product from Eastwood. I'd pick up a can of Rustoleum LONG before I ever consider using another one of their products.
Rust Bullet or Mastercoat Rust Sealer if you want single-component. 2-part epoxy if you can remove or neutralize the rust.
Correct surface prep and cleanliness is a must prior to putting rust inhibitor/converter on. Dont be scared to rub it down with a crap ton of isopropyl, the highest percentage of alcohol you can find or an equally strong solvent that is oil free. Even if it says it'll stop rust from growing, I'd still get as much rust off as possible first. Make sure the rust coating is on thick enough as well and has time to cure properly (more than 1 coat). I used some spray can converter on my old trucks wheel wells and after about 3 months I could see rust coming through the coat of rust preventer, even with 3 coats. Probably coming from rust I couldnt get to in between the wheel well walls at the pinch weld, but it happened. Media blasting would be the fastest possibly and would be easier to control how much material youre removing, but messy. If the rust is deep but not all the way through, a wire wheel or other very abrasive materials may accidentally make a hole in the BAD rust spots if youre not careful. And wire wheels cant get into small pits as well as media blasting can. I doubt you would need body filler for pitting, but enough coats of rust preventer and primer will fill them in.
I couldnt see the pictures you posted, my computer blocks pictures from this website for some reason.
I found the best (and easiest) prep for large areas of metal that have been thoroughly cleaned of all granular rust is 2 pack red epoxy...you can just apply it with a brush.
2 thick coats gives a tremendously tough and non-porous surface with excellent adhesion.
As it is essentially non-porous H2O and O2 cannot reach the surface metal, so any residual rust (of which there will be some) cannot react and expand
As you use a brush, it does not require spray gear, or high quality breathing filters, also it can be used with very little thinner, which decreases its porosity even more
Its a little bit more expensive, but many times more effective in more ways than one
I have tested many paints by spraying items , and leaving them outside. This is the best.
A 2 pac primer filler, just on bare metal is nearly as good, it can be applied with a brush, but spray gun is better
I know everyone says “surface prep is the key”. Well, I am testing that. As you can see from my pictures I didn’t to a total hack job but I also coulda done more prep.
the fiberglass and bondo I used was actually not as hard as I thought. I was pretty intimidated at first but realized it’s kinda like drywall mud.
Doing my roof has motivated me to tackle the other smaller and more manageable rust spots I have on the jeep. Sure I want a professional job but I think a rattle can job will actually turn out pretty good for an old jeep.
And though I sure don’t want to, I can always sand it off and do it better next year.
Oh, pro tip: when I was sanding the roof I sanded the threaded insert for the roof rack flush with the roof cause I couldn’t sand close enough to them. Well then they popped into the roof. Then I got a threaded insert kit and had to spend a bunch of time installing new ones. Weirdly there was no rust around the original inserts so I shoulda just sanded close enough and left them alone.
Roof replacement.
