Slim357

What would be the best way to replace my rocker pannels? My drivers side is starting to rust away so Id rather cut both out and replace them or possibly patch them. What gauge metal should i use or should I just use some 2x6 steel?

philthycoder

The first and foremost suggestion for rocker repair that you'll hear is to just cut out what's left and replace withe steel box tube, 2x6. If you want to do full factory replacement (which is what I, unfortunately, am in the middle of doing to mine right now), it's a lot of work, as you can see in this naxja thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...ER+REPLACEMENT

I went the full replacement route because my inner rockers were in bad shape and needed significant repair, so I figured I'd just go factory replacement while i was at it. If my inner rockers and door sills were still serviceable, I would've gone box tube.

Slim357

My inner rockers are good just did a full floor replacement last year lol not sure which route is quicker and easier .

That Jeep Guy XJMJ

lol there's a reason why the first and foremost suggestion is to just cut out the old and upgrade with the boxed steel.

philthycoder

Haha yep, it's a serious pain in the ***... the dude I bought the XJ from had already purchased the replacement rockers though, and quality pieces too, so I figured I'd take a crack at it. No one will ever know the struggle it took after it's all unassumingly fitted up and painted, either.

edit: so the forum censors the word ay-ess-ess, seriously? and here I thought XJ-ers were hardcore

Slim357

Ill just do the 2x6 rockers then. Need a quick hopefully cheap fix for them. Will a harbor freight 90am work to do it? Thats the only welder I have

ktmriderxjdriver

The cheapest fix is to buy one side rocker and just cut sections from it to patch the original rocker. thats what I do, and after some bending and blending and painting you cant even tell there was a rot hole there.

greendohn

I ordered factory rockers from the stealership..I haven't tore into it yet.

If I ever get started on it, I better keep the cold beer in the cooler 'till finished,,probably a project I should have looked into before spending my doe..not even gonna' think about it untill I get all my fishing out of the way,,LOL,,

Gee oh Dee

Family friendly forum, bause. Subscribing, paid members have access to the hidden area, the under ground. Thats where the rules go away.

The HF 90 amp will do it, but it'll look crappy compared to a gas shielded welder, and won't be as high quality.

Slim357

As long as its strong enough to take some hits on rocks and what not I can make it semi pretty lol.
For real paid members get to ignore the rules so not fair :/

Gee oh Dee

Only in the under ground section, which cannot be seen without becoming a member. Everywhere else they have to follow rules.

Just keep in mind that the spool that comes with the welder isn't that great. And welding thick box tubing to thin, already rusting body panels can be difficult. Heat the thicker metal then drag the pools together so you don't just burn the sheet metal.

And that part of the vehicle is semi structural. Not as big as the subframe or other parts, but its fairly important. So be careful, thats not a spot to take lightly.

Slim357

Ya I know it is but wanted to try and make it a rock slider type of deal but if need be ill just get extra tube for it

Gee oh Dee

If its going to be taking hits from rocks I'd think you'd want to over work and over weld it. The weight of the vehicle sliding along rocks on that one spot seems like it'd be way more stressful than normal driving.

I plan on doing 2x6 tube, but I also plan on making braces that run all the way to the subframe, from the tube to the subframe....

Slim357

Thats what I was thinking about doing after you mentioned its a weak spot but not sure if it will be strong enough

BNJeepsta

I just did 2x6 replacement. The best way to do it is with 3/16" or 1/8" box. I went with 1/4" and even being a certified welder, I had a hell of a time welding 1/4" to rusty sheet metal. Put a strip of 1x1/4" along the top of the rocker after you cut it out. You can use that as a bridge to join the box tubing to the rocker. Drill the 1x1/4" for plug welds and weld the whole way down the length of the 2x6. Knock the pinch seam over and do the same for that. If you have the same issue I did (most of the pinch seam is gone) it will leave a gap between the 2x6 and the floor pan. I used a strip of 4x1/8" to cover the gap and add support. I ran out of gas in my welder before I could put the support legs on, but I'm using sections of 2x3 3/16" that are notched and welded to the 2x6 and welded to my frame stiffeners. Should have the stiffeners and legs on soon! If you need pics, just let me know.