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Replacing transfer case - won't budge

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Old Jun 16, 2024 | 02:53 PM
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Default Replacing transfer case - won't budge

I'm replacing the 242 case on my 97 4.0. Everything is disconnected, removed 5 mounting bolts, the one at the very top is not there, so it should be good to go I think. I can't get it to budge though. Hit it with a mallet, then a 5lb sledge, tried a pry bar, but didn't want to damage the trans. Is this common and/or is there a method that works that I'm not doing?

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jun 16, 2024 | 05:10 PM
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When you say "bolts" I assume you mean nuts (unless someone's been in there before) but I thought I struggled with more than 6 - but that might just be my memory playing tricks.

Probably stuck on the two(?) dowels, use an old screwdriver to open up the gap between the TC & trans.
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Old Jun 16, 2024 | 05:17 PM
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Crossmember removed, slowly lowering the trans/tcase combo - be very sure you have all 6 bolts/nuts removed. Sounds like you've missed one.

There aren't any alignment dowels/pins between the trans/tcase on these fwiw. There also isn't a need for a gasket or sealant between them either incase that comes up
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Old Jun 16, 2024 | 05:25 PM
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Sorry, yes - nuts/studs. Two of the nuts came off the studs, three of the studs came out with the nuts and in the top center hole there was no stud (which actually is the same on the replacement case).

Four of those were so hard to get at it certainly felt like there were more :-)

Before I gave up for the day I hit the seam with PB Blaster, will see if that makes a difference.
I keep thinking I missed one, I checked multiple times but five are out and the top one is definitely missing

Last edited by 97-98-99; Jun 16, 2024 at 05:29 PM. Reason: adding a line
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Old Jun 16, 2024 | 05:31 PM
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there is a ****ing sly one that is tucked right into a recess on the bottom/side RH side

feel around the ungloved fingers and a bright light.

You cant actually see it, but its not the worst one to get off

The worst ones were behind the plate on the LH side, (I could not find my 9/16" Banana spanner until AFTER I finished)

If that is not the one, feel around, no gloves, I would almost bet my ***** you have missed the one I mentioned...I did, and I had my old one sitting there for reference.

Make a mark to reference to clocking points and other things, such as lever positions. I use nail polish

I advise you to replace the front oil seal if appropriate...and the trans output rear seal if you have an AW4
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Old Jun 17, 2024 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by That Jeep Guy XJMJ
Crossmember removed, slowly lowering the trans/tcase combo - be very sure you have all 6 bolts/nuts removed. Sounds like you've missed one.

There aren't any alignment dowels/pins between the trans/tcase on these fwiw. There also isn't a need for a gasket or sealant between them either incase that comes up
OP says he's removed 5 & one was missing, if there are only six, he's not missed any.

Must admit my recollection of the details is now a little hazy, but I thought (assumed?) there were dowels &, as OP observed, it sure seems like more than 6.
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Old Jun 17, 2024 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by UKXJ
OP says he's removed 5 & one was missing, if there are only six, he's not missed any.

Must admit my recollection of the details is now a little hazy, but I thought (assumed?) there were dowels &, as OP observed, it sure seems like more than 6.
As I chase back to my previous comment I can understand how the factory studs do offer an amount of pre alignment before the two are mated together however they are not a tight fitting tolerance and so they do not act/function like an alignment pin/dowel.

The fact that those 5 + 1 "missing" fastening points can be removed, also the removal of the tcase shift linkage being the only other retainer that could physically hold up the separation process leads me to believe that the "missing" fastener may still be the problematic point here.

It's not exactly unheard of that the trans/tcase can have some separation issues - I've dealt with this in the past via a WJ or two but generally speaking - all retaining parts removed - they don't come off with much of a dramatic effort.

I would just ensure you have a clear indication that the "missing" 6th nut/bolt is in fact an empty slot and not a damaged or broken fastener wedged or impeding the removal.
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Old Jun 19, 2024 | 12:54 PM
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Never thought to question OP's statement that one was missing, I imagined a stud without a nut (although I suppose the stud could be missing). It might be as well to investigate that more closely, rather than going direct to physical violence.
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