I just picked up my second Cherokee and had a fun four hour drive of death wobbles caused by rough patches on the interstate. I am in the process of changing out the track bar and steering stabilizer to start checking off possible causes but I have run into a problem. The old stabilizer was connected to the drag ling with a non tapered bolt and the holes on the drag link are non-tapered as well. After countless searches I've yet to find someone with the same issue. My new stabilizer is a tapered fitting which seems to be the norm but I am not sure what to do about this. The only thing I can think of is to find or craft a metal tube insert to put into the bushing (which is what my old one has) and just use a straight bolt with washers. Could this drag link be from another vehicle or is this an issue that happens? The other option is to go ahead and replace the drag link now. I appreciate any thoughts on this. If pictures will help I will gladly provide. Thanks for your time.

 

I'm not sure if it should be tapered or not....After all, it's not a tie rod end attaching there, it's a form of shock absorber. Can't remember if mine is tapered or not from when I replaced the stabilizer, but if you have a buddy with an XJ, ask if his is tapered or not. My guess is no, but I could be wrong.

 

Factory original has tapered drag link and steering stabilizer, at least on my 01. I'd guess you have some kind of aftermarket drag link. You might try buying a different stabilizer. However, its unlikely that your steering stabilizer is CONTRIBUTING to your wobble. Basically the wobble is caused by looseness in parts. The steering stabilizer will only dampen it.

The track bar is a good start. You can verify the track bar condition by having a buddy turn the wheel left stop to right stop and back while looking at the track bar bushing and frame end. Vehicle should be running with all 4 wheels on the ground.

You can also check to make sure there is no slop in your steering or wheel bearings. Rock the wheels back and forth 3 and 9 o'clock to check the steering and 6 and 12 o'clock to check the wheel bearings. You can also check the ball joints by putting a long pipe under the tires and pulling up on it. If there is any visible slop in the ball joint, it needs to be replaced. Raise the front end by the axle or frame for this set of tests.

You can also look at the control arm bushings. Rubber wears out over the years. Unless they are shot, you can probably live without changing them. The arms and bushings themselves are not expensive, but the axle bushings are a lot of fun to R/R ;^)

There's a reasonable chance if your track bar is worn that you will need a wheel alignment after changing the track bar- steering wheel will be off center.